Walk past Charing Cross Station, dodge the commuters rushing toward the Strand, and you’ll find a quiet side street called Craven Street. It looks like a thousand other London lanes. But number 36 is different. It’s the Ben Franklin House London, the only surviving residence of Benjamin Franklin in the entire world. Most people think he lived in Philadelphia his whole life. They’re wrong. He spent sixteen years here—nearly a fifth of his life—right in the heart of the British Empire.
He wasn't just a guest. He was a diplomat, a scientist, and, honestly, a bit of a local celebrity.
The house isn't a dusty museum with velvet ropes. It's an "Architectural Monument." When you step inside, you aren't looking at a recreation of 18th-century life. You’re looking at the actual floorboards that groaned under the weight of a man who was trying to prevent a war while simultaneously inventing the glass armonica. It’s cramped. It’s vertical. It’s quintessentially Georgian.
The Craven Street Years: Why Franklin Was Really There
Franklin didn't move to London for the weather. He arrived in 1757 as a colonial agent for Pennsylvania. Basically, his job was to argue with the Penn family—the guys who owned Pennsylvania—about taxes. Sound familiar? He stayed at 36 Craven Street because the landlady, Margaret Stevenson, became his surrogate family.
He lived here from 1757 to 1775.
Think about that timeline. He was in London while the relationship between the colonies and the Crown was disintegrating. He sat in the cockpit of the British government, just a short walk from Whitehall, trying to play peacemaker. He failed, obviously. But the Ben Franklin House London serves as a physical reminder of that tension. He loved London. He loved the coffee houses. He loved the Royal Society. If history had tipped just a few degrees in the other direction, Franklin might have died a loyal British subject in a terrace house near the Thames.
The house survived the Blitz. It survived centuries of neglect. In the late 20th century, it was a wreck. But thanks to the Ben Franklin House Board and supporters like Lady Joan Reid, it opened to the public on January 17, 2006—Franklin’s 300th birthday.
Science in the Attic and "Air Baths"
Franklin was a polymath who couldn't sit still. While he was supposed to be doing politics, he was busy being a nerd. At the Ben Franklin House London, he conducted experiments that would change how we live.
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He didn't have a laboratory. He had a terrace and a fireplace.
He worked on the lightning rod. He studied the Gulf Stream. He even invented the "glass armonica" here, a musical instrument that Mozart and Beethoven eventually wrote music for. You can still see a replica in the house today.
Then there were the "air baths." Franklin had this weird—well, weird for the 1700s—habit of sitting in front of an open window at Craven Street completely naked every morning. He thought it was healthier than water baths. Imagine being a neighbor in 1765 and seeing one of the most famous men in the world just... chilling in the breeze. No clothes. Just Ben and the London smog.
The Macabre Discovery: Bones in the Basement
Here’s the part the tour guides usually have to explain twice. In 1998, during the restoration of the Ben Franklin House London, workers found something terrifying. They were digging in the basement and found human bones. Lots of them.
Over 1,200 pieces of bone from about 15 individuals.
Was Franklin a serial killer? No. Honestly, the truth is more "medical history" than "true crime." Franklin’s protégé, William Hewson, ran a secret anatomy school in the house. In the 18th century, dissecting bodies was technically illegal unless they were executed criminals. Demand for bodies outpaced the supply from the gallows. Hewson was likely getting "resurrection men" to bring him cadavers through the back door.
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Once he was done teaching his students, he couldn't just throw the remains in the trash. He buried them in the garden/basement.
The Benjamin Franklin House is now an incredible site for bioarchaeological research. The bones showed signs of being sawed, drilled, and studied. It’s a grisly but fascinating layer of the house's history. It proves that this wasn't just a political hub; it was a center for the Enlightenment's messy, physical curiosity.
How the Experience Actually Works
If you're expecting a traditional museum with display cases, you'll be surprised. The Ben Franklin House London uses what they call a "Historical Actress Experience."
- The Historical Experience: This is the main draw. It uses "theatre, lighting, and sound" to bring the rooms to life. You follow an actress playing Polly Stevenson (the landlady's daughter) through the house. It's immersive. It’s not just a lecture.
- Architectural Tours: On certain days (usually Tuesdays), they do a "bare-bones" tour. No actors. No special effects. Just the architecture. This is for the people who want to see the original 1730s paneling and the structural genius of a Georgian terrace.
- The Science Classroom: On the lower ground floor, there’s a dedicated space for kids (and curious adults) to mess around with Franklin’s inventions.
The house is small. Really small. You can’t just wander around for three hours. You book a slot, you do the experience, and you leave feeling like you’ve actually been in 1762.
Planning Your Visit (The Practical Stuff)
The house is located at 36 Craven Street, London WC2N 5NF.
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You've got to book ahead. It’s not a "walk-in and browse" type of place. Because the rooms are original and the stairs are steep—and I mean steep—they limit the number of people inside for safety and preservation reasons.
If you have mobility issues, be aware. It’s a 300-year-old house. There is no elevator. You are climbing the same stairs Ben climbed when he was gouty and tired. It’s part of the charm, but it’s a workout.
Why This House Matters More Than You Think
We live in a world of digital replicas. The Ben Franklin House London is one of the few places where the "vibe" of history hasn't been polished away. When you stand in the parlors, you are standing where the American Revolution was arguably lost and won.
Franklin was the mediator. He tried to explain the colonies to the Parliament and vice-versa. He stood in the "Cockpit" (a nearby government building) and was publicly humiliated by British officials. That event changed him. It turned him from a man trying to save the British Empire into a revolutionary.
He left Craven Street in 1775. He had to. If he’d stayed much longer, he likely would have been arrested for treason.
Expert Tips for History Nerds
- Check the Calendar: They often do evening events. Seeing the house by candlelight (or modern lighting that mimics it) is a totally different vibe.
- The Neighborhood: After you leave, walk toward the river. You’ll see exactly what Franklin saw—the proximity to the Thames was why he chose this spot.
- Look Up: The ceilings and the cornicing are original in several rooms. Most visitors look at the walls or the actors, but the real history is in the plasterwork.
There is a misconception that Franklin was a simple, "folksy" guy with a kite. The Ben Franklin House London debunks that. It shows a sophisticated, urban intellectual who was deeply embedded in the most powerful city on earth.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
To get the most out of your visit to the Ben Franklin House London, don't just show up and hope for the best.
- Book the "Historical Experience" if you want the narrative. It’s best for families and casual history fans.
- Book the "Architectural Tour" if you are into restoration, Georgian design, or just want to see the "bones" of the building without the performance.
- Check the "Bones in the Basement" schedule. Sometimes they have specific talks or displays regarding the Hewson anatomy school discovery.
- Combine with a visit to the Royal Society of Arts nearby. Franklin was a member, and the two sites together give you a complete picture of the "Enlightenment London" scene.
Grab a ticket online at the official website. It’s a small charity, so every ticket actually goes toward keeping the roof from leaking. Once you're done, head to a nearby pub—Franklin definitely would have.