Honestly, if you're looking at pictures of a bright red train snaking across a curved stone bridge high in the Swiss Alps, you've already seen the Bernina Express. It is the poster child for Swiss tourism. But here is the thing: there is a massive difference between seeing a photo of it and actually sitting in those seats for four hours.
Most people just book the first ticket they see on the Rhaetian Railway (RhB) website and hope for the best. Big mistake. You end up in a "panorama" car where the windows don't open, the sun is baking you through the glass, and you’re fighting 50 other tourists for a reflection-free photo of the Landwasser Viaduct.
The Bernina Express isn't just a train. It is a 144-kilometer engineering miracle that climbs from the oldest city in Switzerland, Chur, up to the glaciers at Ospizio Bernina, and then drops like a stone into the palm trees of Tirano, Italy.
The Logistics Most People Ignore
You’ve got two main ways to do this. You can take the official "Bernina Express" (marked as PE for Panorama Express on the schedule) or you can take the local regional trains.
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The official one has those huge, floor-to-ceiling windows. They look incredible in brochures. But you can't open them. If you want that crisp, mountain-air photo without a ghostly reflection of your own forehead in the glass, the regional trains are actually better. They run the exact same tracks. Same views. Same UNESCO World Heritage status.
Why the Regional Train is a "Hack"
- Windows actually open: You can stick your head out (safely!) and feel the temperature drop as you hit 2,000 meters.
- No reservation fees: The official train charges a mandatory seat reservation fee—usually around CHF 32 to CHF 44 depending on the season. Regional trains? Zero.
- Hop on, hop off: You can get out at Alp Grüm, have a beer overlooking the Palü Glacier, and just catch the next train an hour later. On the Express, once you’re off, your seat is gone.
What Really Happens at 2,253 Meters
The highest point is Ospizio Bernina. It’s bleak. It’s beautiful. You’re at 2,253 meters (7,391 feet) above sea level. This is where you see the Lago Bianco (White Lake) and Lej Nair (Black Lake). One drains into the Adriatic; the other into the Black Sea.
The train doesn't use a rack-and-pinion system. No cogs. It’s just pure friction and clever engineering. It handles gradients as steep as 7%, which is basically unheard of for a standard gauge-ish train without help.
The descent toward Italy is where things get wild. You go from literal glaciers to vineyards and pizza in about 90 minutes. You’ll pass through the Brusio Spiral Viaduct. It’s a 360-degree loop that the train uses to lose elevation quickly in a very narrow space. If you are on the "Express" version, everyone will rush to the windows at once. It gets crowded.
The 2026 Reality Check: Prices and Passes
If you have a Swiss Travel Pass or a Eurail Pass, the journey is technically "free." But "free" in Switzerland usually comes with an asterisk. For the Bernina Express, that asterisk is the seat reservation.
As of early 2026, here is what you are looking at:
- Full Route (Chur to Tirano): Approximately CHF 66 for a 2nd class ticket.
- Seat Reservation: CHF 40 in the low season; CHF 44 during the high summer peak (May to October).
- The "Bus" Extension: Many people take the Bernina Express bus from Tirano to Lugano to finish the loop. It’s a 3-hour ride through Lake Como. It’s pretty, but warning: the bus can get incredibly hot in July, and the road is windy. If you get motion sickness, maybe skip the bus and take the Italian regional trains back toward Milan instead.
The Seating Debate: Left or Right?
Everyone asks this. There is a "correct" answer, but it depends on your direction.
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Heading South (Chur to Tirano):
Sit on the right side. This gives you the iconic "looking back" view of the train crossing the Landwasser Viaduct. It also puts you on the side of the Morteratsch Glacier later on. However, once you pass the summit and start descending toward the Brusio Spiral, the left side suddenly becomes the star.
Heading North (Tirano to Chur): Sit on the left.
Honestly, the views are 360 degrees. If you’re in a panoramic car, you’ll see plenty regardless. But the right side (going South) is the "Instagram" side.
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Mistakes to Avoid (Learn from the Amateurs)
Don't be the person who brings a massive suitcase and expects a dedicated luggage car. Space is tight. There are racks at the end of the carriages, but they fill up fast. If you’re doing a point-to-point trip with a lot of gear, get to the station early.
Also, watch the schedule for the Engadin Ski Marathon in March. In 2026, the tracks between Samedan and Pontresina often close for a few hours to let the skiers pass, which means replacement buses. Nobody wants to trade a UNESCO train for a bus.
Lastly, bring your passport. You are crossing into Italy. Most of the time, nobody checks, but when they do, they aren't joking around.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
- Check the Weather 48 Hours Out: If the forecast says heavy fog or "socked in," the panoramic windows are a waste of money. Switch to a regional train and save the reservation fee.
- Book 90 Days Early: If you insist on the official Bernina Express, seats sell out months in advance for the summer. The RhB booking window typically opens 90 days out.
- Download the "Infotrainment" App: The RhB has a free digital guide that uses GPS to tell you what you’re looking at in real-time. It works on your phone via the train's Wi-Fi.
- Pack a Picnic: There is a "mini-bar" cart on the Express, but it’s expensive. Buy a sandwich and some Swiss chocolate at the Coop at Chur station before you board.
- Plan the Return: Don't just go to Tirano and sit in the station. Walk 10 minutes to the Basilica Madonna di Tirano, grab a Valtellina wine, and soak in the Italian sun before heading back.
The Bernina Express is one of those rare tourist traps that actually lives up to the hype, provided you don't let the logistics ruin the view.