You’re standing on the deck of a small ferry, the salt spray hitting your face, and honestly, you might feel a little skeptical. People call Caladesi Island State Park one of the best beaches in America. Dr. Beach—the famous coastal expert Dr. Stephen Leatherman—literally ranked it number one back in 2008 and keeps it high on his lists. But as the boat pulls away from Honeymoon Island, you see a lot of mangroves and not a lot of "world-class" sand. Then, you round the bend. The water shifts from a murky tea color to a startling, translucent turquoise that feels like it belongs in the Exumas, not twenty minutes from the traffic of Clearwater.
Caladesi is weird because it isn't actually an island anymore. Or it is, depending on who you ask and how much you like walking. In 1921, a massive hurricane ripped a hole through what was once a single landmass, creating "Honeymoon" and "Caladesi." But geography is fluid. By the 1980s, sand buildup filled in Dunedin Pass. Now, you can technically walk to Caladesi from Clearwater Beach if you’ve got two hours and a lot of stamina. Most people don't. They take the ferry.
The mistake most visitors make is treating this place like a standard Florida beach day where you sit in a chair, eat a sandwich, and leave. If that's all you do, you're wasting your boat fare. Caladesi is a rare remnant of the "Real Florida" that existed before high-rises took over the Gulf Coast. It’s 600 acres of pure, unadulterated coastal ecosystem.
The Logistics of Getting to Caladesi Island State Park
Let’s get the annoying part out of the way. You can’t just drive here. There is no bridge. Your primary option is the Caladesi Island Ferry, which departs from Honeymoon Island State Park. It’s about 30 bucks for adults, and here is the kicker: you only get a four-hour stay. The ferry captains are strict about this. They color-code your ticket, and if you miss your window, you’re going to hear about it.
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If you want to stay longer, bring your own boat. The park has a 108-slip marina with electric and water hookups. It’s actually one of the coolest spots for overnight boat camping in the state. You’re basically sleeping in a nature preserve. If you’re coming by kayak, start from the Dunedin causeway. It’s about a 20-to-40-minute paddle depending on the tide and how much of a workout you want.
Pro tip: Watch the tides. If the tide is heading out, the current through the channel can be brutal. Check a local tide chart for the St. Joseph Sound before you start paddling. I've seen plenty of casual kayakers get halfway there and realize they're essentially on a treadmill, paddling hard but going nowhere.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Beach
Everyone flocks to the west side of the island for the white quartz sand. It’s beautiful. It’s soft. It doesn't get hot under your feet because quartz reflects the sun rather than absorbing it. But if you stay there all day, you miss the actual soul of the park.
The interior of Caladesi Island State Park is a jungle. There’s a three-mile nature trail that winds through virgin slash pines and ancient live oaks. You’ll see gopher tortoises—those slow-moving, armored tanks of the sandy soil. They are federally protected, so don't touch them, but they’re everywhere. These tortoises dig burrows that provide homes for over 350 other species. They are the "landlords" of the island.
The silence in the middle of the island is heavy. It’s a physical thing. You’re only a few miles from the crowded bars of Pier 60, but here, the only sound is the wind through the pines and the occasional scuttle of an armadillo. It’s a total sensory reset.
The Mangrove Tunnel: A Secret Highlight
If you didn't bring a kayak, rent one at the cafe. Seriously. There is a three-mile mangrove trail that is arguably more impressive than the beach itself. You paddle through these tight, winding "tunnels" where the branches of the red mangroves arch over your head like a cathedral.
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Red mangroves are nicknamed "walking trees" because of their prop roots. They filter salt out of the water and provide a nursery for nearly every major fish species in the Gulf. Look down. You’ll see baby bonnethead sharks, snook, and maybe a manatee if you’re quiet.
The Reality of Island Facilities
Don’t expect a resort. This is a State Park. There is one cafe, officially called "Cafe Caladesi." They serve standard park fare: burgers, fish baskets, and cold beer. It’s fine. It’s actually pretty good for being on a remote island. But if you’re picky or on a budget, pack a cooler.
- Restrooms: They are clean and located near the marina and the beach entrance.
- Showers: There are outdoor rinse stations to get the salt off.
- Rentals: You can grab chairs and umbrellas, which I recommend because there is zero shade on the actual beach.
- Pets: You can bring your dog, but they have to stay on a 6-foot leash and they aren't allowed on the beach itself. They can stay on the vessel, the trails, and in the picnic areas.
The Shelling Secret
Caladesi is a shell hunter’s dream, but you have to know when to go. After a cold front or a storm with westerly winds, the Gulf tosses up treasures. Look for lightning whelks—the only shell that opens on the left side—and olives.
Just remember the law. It is strictly forbidden to take "live" shells. If there is a creature inside that conch or sand dollar, put it back. Florida Fish and Wildlife (FWC) officers do patrol, and the fines are steep. More importantly, it’s just bad karma to kill a sea creature for a shelf decoration.
Why Caladesi Matters in 2026
We are losing places like this. Coastal development is relentless. Caladesi Island State Park exists because of the foresight of people like Myrtle Scharrer Betz, who grew up on the island in the early 1900s. Her book, Yesteryear I Lived in Paradise, is the definitive account of what life was like here before Florida became "Florida."
The park faces challenges. Sea level rise and intensified storm surges are real threats to the low-lying dunes. When you visit, stay off the sea oats. Those spindly plants are the only thing holding the island together. Their roots can go ten feet deep, anchoring the sand against the wind. If you tramp over them, the dune dies, and the island washes away.
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Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you want to do this right, don't just "show up."
- Go early. The first ferry usually leaves at 10:00 AM. Be on it. The island is best before the midday heat and the peak crowds arrive.
- Bring Bug Spray. If the wind drops or blows from the east, the "no-see-ums" (biting midges) will eat you alive near the mangroves. Use a repellent with DEET or Picaridin.
- Walk South. When you get off the boardwalk at the beach, turn left and walk away from the ferry crowd. Within ten minutes, you’ll likely have a 100-yard stretch of beach all to yourself.
- Hydrate. The Florida sun is a different beast. Bring more water than you think you need. The island cafe has drinks, but you don't want to be hiking the nature trail without a bottle in your hand.
- Check the Weather. If lightning is within 10 miles, the ferry stops running. If a storm is brewing, get back to the marina early or you might find yourself waiting out a squall in the picnic pavilion for an hour.
Caladesi isn't just a place to tan. It’s a glimpse into the prehistoric past of the Gulf Coast. It’s messy, it’s salty, and it’s perfect because it hasn't been "refined" for tourists. Treat it with respect, and it’ll be the highlight of your trip.