You’ve probably seen the porch. If you’ve spent more than twenty minutes in the Garden District, you’ve definitely seen it. It’s that massive, white-columned 1883 Italianate mansion standing right on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line. Most locals still call it the Column, but the Column Hotel New Orleans underwent a massive transformation a few years back that changed it from a somewhat dusty, legendary dive-bar-with-rooms into one of the most sophisticated boutique stays in the South.
It's different now.
Honestly, people were worried. When a group led by Juley Le and Thomas J. Sandlin took over the property from the Creasman family—who had owned it since the late 70s—the collective anxiety in New Orleans was palpable. This was the place where Louis Malle filmed Pretty Baby. It was the place where you could get a stiff drink and sit on the porch for three hours without anyone bothering you. Changing it felt like painting over a piece of the city's soul. But they didn't ruin it. They actually made it better, which is a rare feat in a city that usually treats "renovation" as a synonym for "gentrification."
The Vibe Shift at Column Hotel New Orleans
The first thing you notice when you walk in is the light. The old Column was dark. Heavy curtains, dim bulbs, and a general sense of Victorian gloom that felt cool but also a little bit like a funeral parlor. Now? The mahogany staircase is still there—thank god—and the stained glass at the top of the stairs still throws those weird, beautiful colors onto the floorboards. But the rooms feel intentional.
There are only 20 rooms. That’s tiny by modern standards, and it's what makes the place work. You aren't just a guest; you’re basically a temporary resident of a very wealthy, very eccentric 19th-century merchant’s home. The design by Seaworthy and others didn't go for that "minimalist chic" look that makes every hotel in the world look like an Apple Store. Instead, you get custom furniture, Sister Parish wallpapers, and bathrooms that actually have enough space to move around in.
It’s expensive, though. Let’s be real. You aren't staying here if you're looking for a budget Motel 6 experience. You're paying for the location and the fact that you can walk out your front door and be on the Mardi Gras parade route in ten seconds.
Why the Garden District Location Matters
Most tourists stay in the French Quarter. Big mistake.
Don't get me wrong, the Quarter is fun for a night, but if you want to actually see New Orleans, you stay in the Garden District. The Column Hotel New Orleans sits at 3811 St. Charles Avenue. This is the heart of it. You can hear the streetcar rumbled by every fifteen minutes. It’s a rhythmic, comforting sound that defines the neighborhood.
Walk three blocks one way and you’re at Commander’s Palace. Walk five blocks the other way and you’re at The Delachaise sipping wine on the sidewalk. It’s walkable. It’s green. It smells like jasmine in the spring and wet pavement in the summer. It's the New Orleans people see in their heads when they think about Anne Rice novels.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Renovation
There’s this misconception that the new owners "cleaned up" the bar too much. The Bar at Column (formerly just the Columns Bar) used to be a place where you could hide. It was scruffy. Now, it’s polished. The menu has changed. You aren't just getting a basic well drink; you’re getting a cocktail program led by professionals who know how to make a proper Sazerac without making it a "thing."
The food is actually good now. In the old days, you didn't really eat at the Columns unless you were desperate. Now, the kitchen is turning out dishes like blue crab fondue and shrimp toast that people actually travel across town for. It’s a transition from a "drinkers' haunt" to a "destination." Some locals hate that. They miss the grime. But if you're paying $400 a night for a room, you probably want the linens to be clean and the food to be edible.
The Room Situation
If you're booking, you need to know which room to get. Not all rooms are created equal here.
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- The Grand Suites: These are the ones facing St. Charles Avenue. They have the high ceilings and the view. If you're here for Mardi Gras, these are the golden tickets. You can literally watch the parades from your window.
- The Interior Rooms: Smaller, quieter, and usually a bit cheaper. If you’re a light sleeper, get one of these. The streetcar is loud. The revelry on the porch is loud. New Orleans is loud.
- The Attic Rooms: These have a weird, cool geometry because of the roofline. They feel a bit more private, like you're hiding out in the eaves.
One thing to keep in mind: this is an old building. The floors creak. The elevators are... historic. If you need a brand-new, soundproofed Marriott experience, you will be miserable here. But if you want a building that breathes, this is it.
The Porch: The Greatest People-Watching Spot in America
I am not exaggerating. The porch at the Column Hotel New Orleans is a sacred space.
On a Friday evening, it’s a cross-section of the city. You’ve got Tulane students on awkward first dates, old-money Uptown residents in seersucker suits, and tourists who look slightly overwhelmed by the humidity. Everyone is just... there. It’s one of the few places in the city where the "velvet rope" mentality doesn't really exist. If there’s a chair, you sit in it.
You should know that they don't take reservations for the porch. It’s first-come, first-served. If you want a spot under the fans on a Saturday, show up early. Order a Pimm’s Cup. It’s the local law.
Practical Realities of Staying at Column
Let's talk logistics because most travel blogs ignore the annoying stuff.
- Parking: It’s a nightmare. It’s street parking in a crowded residential neighborhood. If you have a rental car, be prepared to circle the block or pay for the limited spots the hotel might have available. Honestly? Just Uber or take the streetcar.
- The Streetcar: It costs $1.25. Get the Le Pass app on your phone. The stop is literally right in front of the hotel. It’ll take you all the way to Canal Street or down to the Riverbend.
- Accessibility: Again, 1883 building. They’ve done work to make it accessible, but it’s still an old house with narrow corridors and eccentric layouts. If you have specific mobility needs, call them before you book. Don't rely on the website.
Why This Place Still Matters
In a world where every hotel is starting to look like a mid-century modern fever dream, the Column Hotel New Orleans feels like it belongs to its geography. It doesn't feel like it was dropped there by a corporate office in Chicago. It feels like it grew out of the Mississippi River mud.
It represents the "New" New Orleans—a city trying to figure out how to be professional and high-end without losing the weird, dark, textured history that makes people want to visit in the first place. It’s a balancing act. Sometimes they lean a little too hard into the "boutique" side, but the bones of the building usually win out.
You stay here because you want to feel the weight of the city. You want to see the moss hanging off the oaks and hear the chime of the streetcar while you're half-asleep. It’s about the atmosphere.
Actionable Advice for Your Stay
If you’re actually planning a trip, here is how you do it right. Don't just show up and hope for the best.
Check the parade schedule if you are visiting between January and March. Even if it’s not "Mardi Gras Day," there are parades almost every weekend. This will either be the highlight of your life or a logistical hellscape depending on whether you like crowds. If the parades are rolling, the streetcar stops running. You will be trapped—in a fun way—in the Garden District.
Skip the hotel breakfast at least once and walk to Sully’s or District Donuts nearby. Then, come back and spend the afternoon on the porch. Don't try to do too much. New Orleans is a city that rewards laziness. If you spend your whole trip running from museum to tour to dinner, you've missed the point.
Book your dinner at the hotel bar for a Tuesday or Wednesday. It's quieter. You can actually talk to the bartenders. Ask them about the history of the house. They usually have a few stories about the ghosts or the celebrities who have passed through, though they’re often too professional to dish the real dirt unless you’ve tipped well and stayed late.
Finally, bring comfortable shoes. The sidewalks in the Garden District are a literal minefield of buckled concrete and oak roots. You will trip. You will look like a tourist. Just accept it.
The Column isn't just a hotel; it’s a landmark that survived a transition that could have easily erased its character. It's still here, it's still weird, and it's still the best place in the city to watch the world go by.