You’re standing in the rain, mid-winter, at a quarry. You press the button on your Dawbarn remote. Nothing. You press it again, harder this time, as if the plastic casing can sense your frustration. Still nothing.
The sheet stays put.
Honestly, there’s nothing more annoying than a dead dawbarn sheet remote battery when you’re trying to get a load of aggregate covered or uncovered quickly. It’s one of those tiny components that keeps a multi-million dollar logistics operation moving, yet we usually ignore it until the light stops flashing.
Why the battery matters more than you think
Most tipping trailers and bulk haulage rigs today rely on systems like the Dawbarn Hydroclear or the Wraptor. These things are workhorses. But the remote control—whether it's the classic Panther keyfob or the newer Icarus Blue Bluetooth setup—is the brain of the operation.
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When that battery starts to dip below its required voltage, you don't just lose range. You get lag. Sometimes the solenoid clicks but the motor won't engage. It’s easy to blame the motor or a blown 150-amp fuse in the main battery box, but nine times out of ten? It’s just the remote juice.
Identifying your remote (and the battery inside)
Dawbarn hasn't used just one remote over the years. You've gotta know which one is in your cab before you start prying things apart.
If you have the Panther Remote Control Keyfob (the one that looks like a chunky black car remote), you’re usually looking at a standard 12V A27 battery or sometimes a CR2032 depending on the specific generation. The A27 is that tiny, cylindrical one that looks like a shrunk-down AAA.
Then there’s the Icarus Blue system. This is the Bluetooth-enabled tech that lets you use your smartphone or a dedicated rugged transmitter. If you’re using the dedicated Icarus transmitter, it often uses a 9V battery (specifically the PP9 or 1604A variant) or is rechargeable via a specific Icarus Blue charging cable.
The ELP Engineering kits, which a lot of people retro-fit to Dawbarn systems, almost exclusively run on that heavy-duty 9V block.
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How to swap it without breaking the casing
Don't use a massive flathead screwdriver. I’ve seen so many drivers snap the plastic clips on a Panther remote because they treated it like a crowbar.
- Find the Notch: On the Panther fobs, there is a tiny indentation usually near the keychain loop.
- The Twist: Use a coin or a guitar pick. Insert it and twist gently. The two halves should pop.
- Polarity Check: This is where people mess up. Look at the "springy thing" (the contact). The flat side of those coin batteries usually faces up toward you. For the A27, make sure the plus sign matches the engraving on the plastic.
- The Click: Snap it back together. If it doesn't click easily, the battery isn't seated flush. Don't force it.
The Icarus Blue factor
If you’ve upgraded to the Icarus Blue system, you might not even need a physical remote battery. Since that system pairs with your phone via an app, your "remote battery" is literally just your phone charge.
However, if you have the physical Icarus transmitter, it’s a different beast. These are often IP55 rated, meaning they are splash-proof. When you change the battery on these, you have to be extra careful with the rubber O-ring seal. If you pinch that seal when closing the back, moisture will get in.
Next thing you know, the PCB is corroded and you’re looking at a £190 replacement bill from Newton Trailers or your local parts desk.
Common myths about Dawbarn remotes
A lot of guys think if the remote stops working, they need to re-pair the whole system.
"It's lost its code," they'll say.
Probably not.
Most of these systems have non-volatile memory. They don't "forget" the receiver just because the battery died. If you put a fresh dawbarn sheet remote battery in and it still won't talk to the trailer, check the receiver box on the headboard first. Look for the LED status light. If that light isn't on, your problem isn't the remote—it's the power supply from the tractor unit or a blown fuse in the trailer's power pack.
Cold weather: The battery killer
It’s not your imagination; the remote works worse in January.
Alkaline and even some lithium batteries struggle when the temperature drops toward freezing. The chemical reaction slows down.
If your sheet won't move on a freezing morning, try warming the remote in your hands or putting it near the heater vent in the cab for five minutes. It sounds "old school," but it often brings a dying battery back to life just long enough to get the sheet back.
Where to get replacements
You don't need to go to a specialist truck dealer for the basic batteries.
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- A27 and CR2032: Any hardware store or even a large supermarket will have these.
- PP9/1604A (9V): Standard stuff. Get the "Industrial" versions if you can; they handle vibration better.
- Specialist Cables: If you have the rechargeable Icarus units, you’ll likely need to order the specific USB-to-round-pin cable from a place like Newton Trailers or Shur-Co.
Maintenance checklist for longevity
Don't just wait for it to die.
- Clean the contacts: Every six months, open the fob and wipe the battery contacts with a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol. Carbon buildup is real.
- Spare in the glovebox: Keep a spare battery in its original packaging in the cab. Do not leave it loose in a tray with coins; it'll short out.
- Check the seal: If you see any cracks in the remote casing, wrap it in a bit of clear tape or replace the housing. Moisture is the enemy.
Troubleshooting steps
If you’ve swapped the battery and it still isn’t working, follow this logic:
Check the "Override" switch on the trailer. If the sheet moves via the manual toggle switch on the power pack, the motor and main battery are fine.
The issue is the receiver or the remote.
Check the antenna on the receiver box. They often get knocked by branches or power-washed into oblivion. If the antenna is snapped, the remote might only work if you're standing 2 feet away from the headboard.
Actionable Next Steps
Check your remote right now. If the LED looks dim or you have to press the button multiple times, it's time.
Go buy a twin pack of A27 or CR2032 batteries (depending on your model). Put one in today and tape the other inside your glovebox lid.
While you're at it, grab a can of electrical contact cleaner. Spray the external 7-pin plug or the Anderson connectors on the trailer. A clean connection to the main battery ensures that even if your remote signal is a bit weak, the system has the "grunt" to respond immediately. Tighten the terminals on the power pack and make sure the 150-amp mega-fuse isn't showing signs of heat stress or corrosion.