How to change a battery in Apple TV remote without breaking it

How to change a battery in Apple TV remote without breaking it

You’re sitting there, ready to binge-watch that new show everyone is talking about, and suddenly, nothing. You click. You swipe. You point the little silver or black stick at the TV like you’re casting a spell. Nothing happens. It’s annoying. Honestly, it’s one of those minor tech failures that feels way more dramatic than it actually is because it stops your relaxation dead in its tracks. Most people assume the remote is "broken" or that Apple is forcing them into an upgrade, but usually, you just need to figure out how to change a battery in Apple TV remote before you lose your mind.

The thing is, "Apple TV Remote" isn't just one device. Apple has been making these for years, and they’ve changed the power source multiple times. Some take coin cells. Some have internal lithium-ion packs that charge via Lightning or USB-C. If you try to pry open a Siri Remote looking for a watch battery, you’re going to have a very bad, very expensive afternoon.

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Identifying which remote you actually have

Before you go grabbing a screwdriver or a replacement pack of CR2032s, look at the remote in your hand. This is the step everyone skips. There are basically three "eras" of Apple TV remotes.

The oldest ones are white or silver and made of plastic or aluminum. These are the ones that actually use replaceable batteries. If yours is the thin, silver aluminum version with a circular click wheel at the top, that’s the Apple Remote (Aluminum). It’s a classic. If it’s white and looks like a flattened iPod Shuffle, that’s the original white plastic model. Both of these rely on those little flat "button" batteries.

Then you have the modern era. The Siri Remote (or Apple TV Remote in regions where Siri isn't supported) is either black with a glass touch surface or the newer silver aluminum one with the high-tech clickpad. These don't have a "door." They don't have a battery compartment you can access easily. They’re rechargeable. If you have one of these, you aren't "changing" the battery in the traditional sense; you’re reviving it.

The Silver Aluminum Remote: The Coin Cell Method

If you have the silver aluminum remote (non-Siri), you’re dealing with a CR2032 battery. These are the same ones found in car key fobs and some heart rate monitors. You can find them at any CVS or grocery store.

Look at the back of the remote. There is a small, circular battery component with a slot in the middle. Do not use a knife. I’ve seen people try to use kitchen knives to twist these, and they always slip and scratch the metal or, worse, their hand. Use a coin. A nickel or a quarter fits perfectly into that slot.

Turn the coin counterclockwise. It only needs a small turn—maybe a quarter of an inch—and the battery cover will pop up. Flip the remote over, and the old battery should drop out. If it’s stuck, a gentle tap on your palm usually does the trick. Slide the new CR2032 in with the positive (+) side facing up toward you. If you put it in upside down, the remote won't work, and you'll spend ten minutes wondering why the "new" battery is a dud. Put the cover back on, twist it clockwise with your coin, and you're back in business.

The White Plastic Remote: The Bottom Slide

The old-school white remote is a bit different. Instead of a circular door on the back, the battery compartment is a hidden tray at the bottom. You’ll see a tiny button or a pinhole on the bottom edge.

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You need something small and blunt. A paperclip works, but honestly, even the tip of a ballpoint pen is fine. Press the button, and the tray slides out like a tiny drawer. This one uses a CR2032 as well. Just swap it, push the tray back in until it clicks, and you're finished. It’s a bit flimsy compared to the aluminum one, so don't force it if it feels stuck. Sometimes dust gets in the tracks over five or six years of sitting on a coffee table.

The Siri Remote: Why you can't "change" it

If your remote has a Menu button or a TV icon button and a Touch surface, you have a Siri Remote. Whether it’s the black glass one (1st or 2nd generation) or the newer silver one with the circular d-pad (3rd generation), there is no user-replaceable battery inside.

Apple sealed these things shut.

If your Siri Remote is dead, you need to plug it in. The older black ones use a Lightning cable—the same one you use for an iPhone 14 or older. The newest silver Siri Remote (the one that comes with the Apple TV 4K 2022 and later) uses USB-C.

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How to tell if your rechargeable remote is actually dying

Sometimes the remote feels laggy or unresponsive, and people think the battery is shot. It might just be a low charge. You can actually check the exact percentage on your TV. Go to Settings > Remotes and Devices > Remote. It will show you a battery level indicator. If it’s under 10%, it’s time to plug it in for an hour.

A lot of people ask: "Can I replace the internal battery if it stops holding a charge?"
The short answer is: Not really.
The long answer is: Technically, yes, but it’s a nightmare. iFixit gives the Siri Remote a very low repairability score. You have to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive, pry the glass or aluminum apart without shattering the touch surface, and then desolder the battery from the logic board. It is almost always cheaper and safer to just buy a replacement remote for about $60 than it is to risk an exploded lithium-ion cell or a shattered glass remote.

Troubleshooting common "dead battery" myths

Sometimes you follow the steps on how to change a battery in Apple TV remote, put the new one in, and... still nothing. It happens. Before you throw the remote across the room, try these three things.

  1. Check for "Stuck" Buttons: On the older silver remotes, sometimes a button gets depressed just enough to constantly drain the battery. If you put a new battery in and it dies again in three days, you have a hardware short.
  2. Re-pair the Remote: This is the big one. If the battery was dead for a long time, the remote might have lost its "handshake" with the Apple TV box. For the silver aluminum remote, hold the Menu and Right buttons for six seconds. For the Siri Remote, hold the Back (or Menu) button and the Volume Up button for five seconds while holding it close to the Apple TV.
  3. The iPhone Remote App: If you’re waiting for batteries to arrive or your remote is truly fried, remember that your iPhone has a built-in remote in the Control Center. Swipe down from the top right of your iPhone screen, tap the remote icon, and you can control everything from your phone. It’s a lifesaver when you’re in the middle of a movie.

Maintenance and Longevity

To keep your remote batteries from leaking or dying prematurely, keep them away from high heat. Don't leave the remote on top of a warm receiver or in direct sunlight on a windowsill. For the rechargeable Siri remotes, try not to let them sit at 0% for months. Lithium-ion batteries hate being completely empty; it causes "deep discharge" which can permanently kill the battery's capacity. If you have a guest room Apple TV that rarely gets used, plug the remote in once every few months just to keep the cells healthy.

Summary of Battery Types

  • Apple Remote (Silver Aluminum): CR2032 (Coin Cell)
  • Apple Remote (White Plastic): CR2032 (Coin Cell)
  • Siri Remote (Black Glass): Internal Rechargeable (Lightning Cable)
  • Siri Remote (Silver Aluminum w/ Clickpad): Internal Rechargeable (USB-C or Lightning depending on the year)

Actionable Next Steps

Check the back of your remote right now to see if it has a coin slot. If it does, buy a two-pack of CR2032 batteries so you aren't stuck without a remote the next time it dies. If your remote is the rechargeable type and it’s acting sluggish, plug it into a wall charger (not just the USB port on the back of your TV, which often provides less power) for a full 60 minutes. Finally, if your remote is physically damaged or the internal battery has expanded, recycle it at an e-waste center or an Apple Store rather than tossing it in the trash, as the lithium cells can be a fire hazard in garbage trucks.