You’re digging through your backpack, frantically looking for your keys, when it hits you. When was the last time you thought about that little silver disc? Apple’s AirTags are basically "set it and forget it" tech, which is great until the moment they actually die. Honestly, most people don't even realize they need to check battery on airtag until the Find My app sends a frantic notification at 2:00 AM.
It happens to the best of us. You bought the four-pack, tossed them into your luggage, your wallet, and maybe your cat's collar, and then you just... lived your life. But lithium coin cells aren't immortal. Even though Apple claims a one-year battery life, real-world usage varies wildly depending on how often you trigger the "Play Sound" feature or how much you rely on Precision Finding. If you're constantly losing your remote in the couch cushions, that battery is going to tank way faster than the one sitting idle in your emergency earthquake kit.
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Where did the battery percentage go?
Here is the thing that trips everyone up. You open the Find My app, tap on your item, and you're looking for a little green bar or a percentage like on your iPhone. It’s not there. It used to be there, but Apple actually removed the specific battery icon in a firmware update (specifically around iOS 15.6). Why? Because the voltage on CR2032 batteries—the little "buttons" that power these things—is notoriously difficult to measure accurately. A battery might report 20% and then die five minutes later, or stay at 10% for three months.
To avoid people panicking over a "half-empty" battery, Apple switched to a "low battery" warning system. You won't see a status bar anymore unless the power is critically low. Basically, if you look at the item's info page in Find My and you don't see a red battery icon, you're good. No news is good news. It’s a bit counterintuitive for tech nerds who want data, but for the average person, it’s one less thing to micromanage.
The step-by-step to check battery on airtag status
Even though there’s no permanent "fuel gauge," you still need to know where to look. Grab your iPhone.
First, fire up the Find My app. It's the one with the green radar circle. Tap the Items tab at the bottom. This is where all your AirTags live. Now, tap on the specific item you’re worried about—let’s say your "Work Keys." Look right under the name of the AirTag. If the battery is healthy, you’ll just see the location and the "Play Sound" or "Find" options. If the battery is about to give up the ghost, a small red battery icon will appear right there with the text "Low Battery."
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It’s subtle. Too subtle, if you ask me. I’ve missed it plenty of times because I was focused on the map and not the tiny text below the name. If you see that red icon, it’s time to head to the store. Don't wait. Once that icon shows up, you usually have a couple of weeks of life left, but Precision Finding will start to get flaky almost immediately.
Why your AirTag might be dying early
Environment matters. If you live in Minnesota and your AirTag is in your car during a polar vortex, that battery is going to struggle. Cold weather is a literal vampire for CR2032 cells. The chemical reaction inside the battery slows down, the voltage drops, and your iPhone might give you a "Low Battery" alert that miraculously disappears once the car warms up.
Also, consider how often you use the speaker. The "chirp" is the most power-hungry thing an AirTag does. If you have a mischievous kid who likes to trigger the sound on your wallet every day, expect that battery to last maybe six to eight months instead of the promised twelve.
The CR2032 Bitter Coating Nightmare
This is a weird one, but it’s the most common reason people think their AirTag is broken after a battery swap. When you go to buy a replacement, you'll see brands like Duracell that have a "bitter coating" on their CR2032 batteries. It’s meant to stop toddlers from eating them. It’s a great safety feature, but it’s a nightmare for electronics.
The coating is basically a thin layer of non-conductive film. On many AirTags, this coating prevents the battery from making a solid connection with the terminals. You’ll pop the new battery in, twist the cap back on, and... nothing. No startup chime.
If you bought the bitter-coated ones, you have two choices:
- Rub it off. Use a bit of rubbing alcohol or a damp cloth to vigorously scrub the side of the battery with the markings.
- Buy the "cheap" ones. Honestly, the generic batteries or the ones from brands like Panasonic often lack the coating and work much more reliably in Apple’s hardware.
How to actually change the battery (without breaking your nails)
Replacing the battery is simple, but it requires a specific "push and twist" motion. Look at the silver stainless steel side of the AirTag. That’s the battery cover.
Press down firmly on that silver backing with two thumbs. While pressing, rotate it counter-clockwise. It only moves about a quarter-inch before it clicks. Once it clicks, the cover will pop up, and you can tip the old battery out. When you put the new CR2032 in, make sure the positive (+) side is facing up toward you.
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Wait for the sound. This is the most important part. When the battery makes contact, the AirTag will play a little digital trill. If you don't hear that sound, the battery isn't seated right or that bitter coating we talked about is blocking the juice. Once you hear the chime, put the cover back on, align the tabs, and twist it clockwise until it stops.
Dealing with "AirTag Not Reachable" errors
Sometimes you check the app and it says "Not Reachable" or doesn't update the location. This isn't always a battery issue. If you're in a crowded area with a lot of Bluetooth interference, or if the AirTag hasn't been near an iPhone (any iPhone, not just yours) for a while, it might look like it’s dead.
Before you crack it open, try toggling your iPhone’s Bluetooth off and on. Sometimes the "handshake" between your phone and the tag just gets stuck. If it still won't update after you're standing right next to it, then yeah, the battery is likely the culprit.
Proactive maintenance: The "Annual Swap" strategy
Waiting for the "Low Battery" notification is a gamble. If you’re about to go on a big international trip, do yourself a favor and just change the batteries in your luggage tags before you head to the airport.
I usually keep a 5-pack of CR2032s in my junk drawer. I've found that changing them every October (right before the holiday travel season) saves a lot of headaches. There is nothing worse than landing in London and realizing the AirTag in your checked bag died somewhere over the Atlantic.
Does the battery brand matter?
Not really, as long as it's a reputable 3V lithium cell. Energizer, Panasonic, and Sony all make great ones. The only thing you really need to watch for is the "Use By" date on the packaging. CR2032s have a long shelf life, but if you buy a pack that’s been sitting in a humid warehouse for five years, it's not going to give you that full year of AirTag life.
Actionable Next Steps
- Open the Find My app right now. Don't wait. Just check. Tap the "Items" tab and scroll through your list. If you see a red battery icon under any name, that’s your homework for today.
- Buy a 5-pack of CR2032 batteries. Get them before you need them. Amazon or any local drugstore will have them. Avoid the ones with "Bitter Coating" if you want to avoid the headache of cleaning them off.
- Check your "Safety Alerts." Make sure your iPhone is set to notify you when an item is left behind. This often triggers a "check-in" with the AirTag that can help you realize the battery is getting low before you actually lose the item.
- Mark your calendar. Set a recurring reminder for 11 months from today to "Check AirTag batteries." It takes two minutes and prevents that moment of panic when you actually need to find your lost gear.
The AirTag system is brilliant, but it’s only as good as the $2 battery inside it. Keep an eye on that Find My app, listen for the chime when you swap cells, and you’ll never have to worry about your "lost" items actually staying lost.