You’ve probably seen the dust. That thick, grey carpet choking the fans of your PlayStation 5. Maybe your console sounds like a jet engine taking off every time you boot up God of War, or perhaps you're just curious about what’s actually under that massive white shell. Whatever the reason, figuring out how to disassemble PS5 units isn't nearly as scary as it looks, but it definitely requires a bit of finesse and the right screwdriver. If you go in guns blazing with a standard Phillips head, you’re going to have a bad time.
Sony designed this machine with a "liquid metal" thermal interface, which is basically the high-stakes version of thermal paste. If you mess with the APU seal, you’re looking at a very expensive paperweight.
Most people start this journey because of the fan. It’s a dust magnet. Honestly, the "dust catchers" Sony bragged about during the 2020 teardown video featuring Yasuhiro Ootori only do so much. To really get the gunk out, you have to go deeper. You’ll need a T8 or T9 Security Torx screwdriver. Note the word "security"—it needs that little hole in the middle of the bit to fit over the pin in the PS5 screws. Without it, you're stuck before you even begin.
Popping the Hood: The Side Plates
Removing the wings is the first hurdle. It feels like you’re going to snap the plastic. You’re not, probably. Lay the console flat. If you have the disc version, the disc drive should be facing up. Grab the top-left corner and the bottom-right corner. Lift slightly and slide it toward the bottom of the console. It should pop right off with a satisfying, albeit terrifying, click.
Once those plates are off, the console looks naked. Vulnerable. You’ll see the massive 120mm fan guarded by a metal intake grille. This is where most casual cleaners stop, and frankly, for 90% of users, this is enough. You can vacuum out the dust ports here. But we're talking about a real teardown.
Dealing with the Fan
There are four screws holding that fan intake in place. They aren't all the same length. This is a classic Sony move. If you put a long screw into a short hole later, you might pierce the motherboard or strip the housing. Keep a magnet tray nearby. Or a piece of paper where you draw a rough map of the console and tape the screws to it. It sounds overkill until you’re staring at a pile of silver bits wondering which one goes where.
Unplugging the fan connector is the part where people usually mess up. Don't use your fingernails. Use a pair of plastic tweezers or a spudger. The header on the motherboard is surprisingly fragile. Pull straight up, gently. If you rip that header off, you aren't fixing a fan—you're learning how to solder.
Deep Dive into the Chassis
To get to the "guts," you have to remove the secondary plastic casing. This involves a literal dozen-plus screws. Sony used a lot of shielding here to prevent electromagnetic interference. It’s a bit of a maze. You’ll notice the warranty sticker covering one of the screws. In the US, the FTC has ruled that "warranty void if removed" stickers are generally unenforceable, but let's be real: if you break a component while the console is in pieces, Sony isn't going to bail you out for free.
The Disc Drive and Power Supply
The disc drive is tucked away in its own little vibration-dampening house. It’s connected by a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables are the bane of DIY repair. They are thin, flimsy, and the locking mechanisms are tiny. Flip the little black or white tab up before you pull the cable.
The power supply is a long, curved brick that sits at the bottom. It’s heavy. It’s also where a lot of heat builds up. If your PS5 is shutting down randomly with no "Your PS5 is too hot" warning, it might be because the power supply vents are clogged. You can’t see them from the outside. You have to pull the PSU out to see the tiny honeycomb holes that get plugged with pet hair and dust.
The Liquid Metal Nightmare
Let’s talk about the APU. This is the heart of the machine. Unlike the PS4, which used a standard thermal pad or paste, the PS5 uses liquid metal (Gallium). It’s incredibly efficient at moving heat. It’s also conductive.
Do not remove the heat sink unless you absolutely have to. If you lift that copper heat sink, the liquid metal can spill onto the motherboard. If it touches a capacitor, pop. Game over. Sony uses a specialized foam gasket to keep the metal contained. If you break that seal, you need to be prepared to re-apply liquid metal, which is a messy, nerve-wracking process involving Q-tips and a lot of patience.
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If you're just cleaning dust, leave the heat sink alone. Seriously. The performance gains from replacing the factory liquid metal are negligible for the average user, and the risks are astronomical. Experts like Steve Burke from Gamers Nexus have shown how intricate the cooling assembly is; it’s a marvel of engineering, but it isn't "user-serviceable" in the traditional sense.
Reassembly: The Reverse Puzzle
Putting it back together is usually faster, but it’s where mistakes happen because you’re in a rush to play Spider-Man.
- Slide the power supply back in, ensuring the pins align perfectly.
- Replace the main shielding. Ensure no cables are pinched under the metal edges.
- Reconnect the ribbon cables. Make sure they are seated deep in the connector before flipping the lock down.
- Drop the fan back in. Spin it with your finger to make sure it’s not hitting the shroud.
- Screw the intake grille back on using the correct screw lengths you (hopefully) marked earlier.
The side plates slide back on from the bottom up. You’ll hear that loud click again. That’s the sound of success.
Maintenance Habits to Avoid This Again
Disassembling a PS5 is a chore. You don't want to do it every six months. To keep the airflow clean, get the console off the floor. Carpet is a vacuum for dust. If you have it in an entertainment center, make sure there’s at least 4-6 inches of clearance behind the exhaust. The PS5 pushes out a massive amount of hot air; if that air hits a wall and circles back into the intake, the internal fans will ramp up to max speed, drawing in even more dust.
Check the "dust catchers" every month. Just pop the plates off—no tools required for that—and use a low-powered vacuum on the two triangular holes. It actually works.
Essential Tools for the Job
Don't start this without having everything on the table. You'll get frustrated.
- Security Torx T8 or T9: The most important tool.
- Phillips #1 Screwdriver: For the internal shielding and M.2 expansion slot.
- Plastic Spudger: For prying and moving cables without causing a short.
- Compressed Air or a Manual Blower: To blast out the fins of the heat sink.
- Isopropyl Alcohol (90% or higher): For cleaning the fan blades or any accidental grease spots.
Actionable Next Steps
Before you even touch a screwdriver, back up your save data to the cloud or a USB drive. While a physical teardown shouldn't affect your SSD data, accidents happen. Static electricity is a real threat, so work on a non-conductive surface—no shag rugs. If you find that the fan is still noisy after a deep clean, it might be the bearings. In that case, look for a replacement Nidec or Delta fan, which are the two common OEMs Sony uses. Replacing the fan is a 10-minute job once you know how to get the plates off. Keep your screws organized, take photos of every step with your phone, and move slowly. The PS5 is a sturdy machine, but it isn't invincible. Once it's back together, give it a test run with a demanding game to ensure the fan curves are behaving normally and the heat is exhausting properly.