Buying a used tablet or trying to trade one in? You're probably staring at a slab of glass and aluminum that looks exactly like every other slab of glass and aluminum Apple has made since 2018. It’s a common headache. Honestly, Apple doesn't make it easy because they insist on calling everything "iPad Air" or "iPad Pro" without slapping a big "6th Generation" sticker on the back. If you need to figure out your iPad how to know model situation, you’ve gotta dig a bit deeper than just looking at the color.
People get burned on eBay all the time. They think they’re buying a 2022 model, but it’s actually a 2020 version that looks identical. The difference in processor speed—moving from an A-series chip to the M1 or M2—is massive for longevity. You don't want to be the person who realizes they bought a "dead end" device that won't support the next three years of iPadOS updates.
The Quickest Way Through Settings
Open your iPad. Tap Settings. Go to General. Tap About.
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Look for the "Model Name" line. This is the most straightforward answer you'll get. It will say something like "iPad Air (5th generation)" or "iPad Pro 11-inch (4th generation)." Simple, right? Well, sometimes.
There’s a catch. If your screen is smashed or the battery is stone-cold dead, this method is useless. Also, some older versions of iOS don't display the "friendly name" as clearly as the newer ones do. Beneath the Model Name, you’ll see "Model Number." It likely starts with a letter like M or N followed by some digits. If you tap that M-number, it toggles to a different number starting with the letter A. That A-number is the holy grail.
The A-number (e.g., A2759) is the specific identifier for the hardware chassis and regional configuration. Apple uses the M-number for retail tracking (which tells you the capacity and color), but the A-number tells you exactly what the silicon inside is.
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iPad How to Know Model When the Screen is Dead
What if the thing won't turn on? Maybe you found it in a drawer or you're looking at a listing photo that's blurry. Flip the device over.
Look at the very bottom of the back casing. In tiny, almost microscopic print, you’ll see the word "Model" followed by that A-series number. You might need a magnifying glass or a high-res photo from a modern smartphone to read it. It’s etched right into the metal.
If the back is scuffed to high heaven and you can't read the etching, there's still hope. Check the original box if you still have it. The label on the bottom of the box contains the serial number and the model description. If the box is gone, and the iPad is dead, and the back is scratched? You're looking at physical clues.
Identifying by Physical Characteristics
The transition from Lightning to USB-C is a huge giveaway. If your iPad has a USB-C port (the rounded rectangular hole, not the tiny flat Lightning port), it’s a newer model. Specifically, every iPad Pro since 2018, every iPad Air since the 4th Gen (2020), and the base iPad 10th Gen use USB-C.
Speakers tell a story too. The iPad Pro models have four speaker grilles—two on top, two on the bottom. The Air and the mini usually only have two. Then there's the Apple Pencil. If your iPad has a flat magnetic strip on the long side to charge an Apple Pencil 2 or Pro, it’s a modern design. If it’s got a completely rounded edge, it’s likely an older base model or an aging Air.
Understanding the "M" and "N" Codes
When you look in the Settings menu, that first model number (the one starting with M) actually reveals the history of the device.
- M: Brand new retail unit.
- F: Refurbished by Apple. These are generally great, but it's good to know if you paid "new" prices for a refurb.
- N: Replacement device. This means the original owner had a problem, took it to the Genius Bar, and Apple handed them a replacement unit.
- P: Personalized/Engraved. Someone probably got "Happy Birthday Grandma" etched on the back at the factory.
Knowing this prevents you from getting scammed. If a seller claims a device is "brand new in box" but the model number starts with an F, they’re lying. It’s a refurbished unit. While Apple’s refurbs are top-tier, they have a lower resale value than a true retail M-unit.
Why the Generation Matters for iPadOS 18 and Beyond
Apple is increasingly splitting their software features based on the chip inside. This is why the iPad how to know model search is so vital right now. Apple Intelligence—the suite of AI tools—requires an M-series chip (M1, M2, M4). If you find out your "new" iPad is actually a 4th Gen Air with an A14 chip, you're locked out of the biggest software shift in a decade.
Even Stage Manager, the multitasking feature that lets you use windows, is picky. It works best on the M-series iPads. Using it on an older A12X or A12Z Pro is possible, but it doesn't support external displays in the same way. You don't want to buy hardware that's technically "supported" by the latest OS but can't actually run the best features.
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Practical Steps to Take Right Now
If you are currently holding an iPad and need a definitive answer, follow these steps in order:
- Check Settings > General > About. Tap the Model Number to see the "A" code.
- Cross-reference that A-code on Apple's official "Identify your iPad model" support page. It’s the only 100% accurate database.
- Verify the storage. While in the About menu, check the Capacity. A 64GB iPad in 2026 is a struggle; you really want to see 128GB or 256GB if you plan on downloading movies or gaming.
- Check the Serial Number for Warranty. Copy that serial number and paste it into Apple’s "Check Coverage" website. This will tell you exactly when the device was purchased and if it still has AppleCare+. This is a secondary way to confirm the model because the warranty page will explicitly name the device.
If you’re buying from a third party, always ask for a screenshot of the "About" page. If they refuse or send a blurry photo, walk away. There are too many stolen or MDM-locked (Mobile Device Management) iPads floating around on marketplaces. An MDM lock means the iPad belongs to a school or a corporation, and they can lick it remotely at any time, turning your purchase into a paperweight.
Knowing your model isn't just about bragging rights. It’s about knowing which accessories to buy. An iPad Pro 11-inch (M4) uses a completely different Magic Keyboard than the iPad Pro 11-inch (1st Gen). Buying the wrong one is a $300 mistake that’s easily avoided by checking that tiny A-series number on the back.