The iPhone X changed everything. Seriously. When it dropped in 2017, that notch was the most controversial thing in tech, and the $999 price tag made people gasp. But the real kicker wasn’t the price of the phone; it was the cost of breaking it. If you’re staring at a spiderweb of glass on your display right now, you’re dealing with the first-ever mainstream smartphone OLED panel that actually mattered. It's beautiful. It's also a total pain to fix correctly.
Most people think a screen is just a screen. It isn’t. With an iPhone X screen replacement, you aren't just swapping glass; you’re navigating a minefield of Face ID sensors, True Tone calibration, and the difference between a vivid Super Retina experience and a washed-out, battery-draining knockoff.
Honestly, I’ve seen so many "budget" repairs turn into a nightmare where the phone works, but it just feels... off. Let's get into why that happens and what you actually need to look for so you don't get ripped off.
The OLED vs. LCD Trap
Here is the big secret repair shops don't always lead with: there are two very different types of replacement screens for this specific model. The iPhone X shipped with an Organic Light Emitting Diode (OLED) panel. Unlike traditional screens, OLED doesn't have a backlight. Every single pixel makes its own light. This is why blacks look so deep and "true"—the pixels literally just turn off.
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Now, because OLED is expensive, the aftermarket flooded the scene with "In-Cell LCD" replacements. They are cheap. Like, really cheap. You’ll see them on eBay or at the mall kiosk for a fraction of the price of an OEM part.
But there’s a massive catch.
LCDs require a backlight. This makes the screen assembly thicker. When you squeeze an LCD into a frame designed for an OLED, you’re putting physical pressure on the internal components. I’ve seen these screens literally pop out of the frame after a week because the adhesive couldn't hold the tension. Plus, your battery life will tank. An LCD draws constant power to keep that backlight running, whereas the original iPhone X software is optimized to save power by using the "true black" of an OLED. If you care about your phone lasting through the afternoon, stick to Soft OLED or Hard OLED.
Wait, what’s the difference between Hard and Soft OLED?
Hard OLEDs are built on a glass substrate. They’re cheaper to make but much more brittle. If you drop your phone with a Hard OLED, the internal display might shatter even if the outer glass is fine. Soft OLED is what Apple uses. It’s built on a flexible plastic substrate, making it way more durable and much closer to the original "infinity" look where the screen curves slightly at the edges.
The Face ID Nightmare
You’ve probably heard the horror stories. Someone gets their iPhone X screen replacement done at a local shop, and suddenly, Face ID is "Not Available." This isn't just a fluke; it's a security feature Apple baked into the hardware.
The Face ID system—the "TrueDepth" camera—is a complex sandwich of three main parts:
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- The Infrared Camera
- The Flood Illuminator
- The Dot Projector
These parts are paired to your specific logic board at the factory. When you replace the screen, you have to move the speaker and sensor assembly from the old screen to the new one. This requires a steady hand and a bit of heat. If a technician is sloppy and nicks the ribbon cable or gets a fingerprint on the Dot Projector, Face ID is dead forever. There is no software fix for a physically damaged Dot Projector. It’s a paperweight.
There’s also the issue of the ambient light sensor. If you don't use a programmer—like the iCopy or the QianLi Apollo—to copy the serial numbers from your old screen to the new one, you lose True Tone. That's the feature that adjusts the color temperature of your screen based on the light in the room. Without it, your screen usually looks way too blue and harsh.
The DIY Reality Check
Can you do this yourself? Sure. Should you? That depends on how much you value your Saturday afternoon and your sanity.
If you go the DIY route, you’re going to encounter the dreaded pentalope screws on the bottom. Then there’s the waterproof adhesive. It’s like trying to peel a grilled cheese sandwich apart without tearing the bread. You need a heat gun or a specialized heating pad to soften that glue. If you pry too hard or at the wrong angle, you’ll slice the cables for the display or the sensors.
And don't even get me started on the screw lengths. Apple uses "long screw damage" as a way to keep technicians humble. The screws inside an iPhone X are not all the same size. If you put a 1.3mm screw into a hole designed for a 1.1mm screw, you will drive that screw straight into the motherboard. You’ll kill a trace, and the phone might never turn on again. Basically, you’ve turned a $150 repair into a $600 replacement.
Pro-Tip for the Brave:
If you do attempt a DIY iPhone X screen replacement, get a magnetic screw mat. It is the only way to stay organized. Trust me.
Cost vs. Value in 2026
We have to talk about whether this is even worth it anymore. The iPhone X is a classic, but it's getting older. As of now, Apple's official out-of-warranty repair price is still pretty high—often hovering around the $279 mark depending on your region.
A high-quality Soft OLED part usually costs between $60 and $90. If you take it to a reputable independent shop, you're looking at maybe $130 to $180 total.
Is it worth spending $150 on a phone that might only have another year or two of major software support?
Honestly, yes, if the rest of the phone is in good shape. The iPhone X was the peak of stainless steel design. It still feels more premium than a brand-new "budget" SE model. But if your battery health is below 80%, you should probably do the battery and the screen at the same time. You’re already opening the phone anyway; most shops will give you a deal if you do both at once since the labor overlap is huge.
What to Ask a Repair Shop
Don't just walk into a shop and ask "How much?" That's how you end up with a garbage LCD. You need to be specific. Here is exactly what I would ask if I were calling around:
- "Do you use Soft OLED, Hard OLED, or LCD?" (If they say LCD, hang up.)
- "Do you transfer the True Tone data?" (If they don't have a programmer, they aren't pros.)
- "Do you offer a warranty on the part?" (A good shop should give you at least 90 days against touch defects.)
- "Will you replace the waterproof seal?" (Many shops skip this. Your phone won't be "waterproof" either way—never trust an opened phone around water—but the seal keeps dust out from behind the cameras.)
If they stumble on these questions, keep moving. A good tech knows exactly what they're putting in your device.
The "Green Line" Phenomenon
One thing that drives iPhone X owners crazy is the "Green Line of Death." This is a hardware failure inherent to the Samsung-manufactured OLEDs Apple used. Sometimes it happens after a drop, but sometimes it just... appears.
If you see a bright green vertical line on your screen, your display is dying. It’s a failure of the electrical trace that carries the signal to that column of pixels. There is no software fix. The only solution is a full iPhone X screen replacement.
Sometimes, people think they can just "fix" the glass. No. In the modern era, the glass, the touch digitizer, and the OLED are fused together in a vacuum chamber. While specialized refurbishing shops can "re-glass" a screen, it involves liquid nitrogen or wire saws. For 99% of people, you’re replacing the whole assembly.
Final Actionable Steps
If you’ve decided to move forward with fixing your device, don't just wing it.
First, back up your data. This should be obvious, but I’ve seen phones go into recovery loops during a simple screen swap because of a faulty sensor. Get that iCloud backup done or plug it into a computer.
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Second, check your battery health. Go to Settings > Battery > Battery Health. If you’re at 82% or lower, just pay the extra $50 to have the shop swap the battery while they have the screen off. It’s the single best way to make an old iPhone feel like a brand-new device.
Third, decide on your parts. If you’re doing it yourself, buy from a reputable vendor like iFixit or specialized parts suppliers who offer "Premium" or "Choice" tiers. Avoid the cheapest option on Amazon; those are usually the B-grade panels that didn't pass quality control at the factory.
An iPhone X screen replacement isn't just about fixing a crack. It’s about preserving the experience of one of the most iconic phones Apple ever made. Do it right, use an OLED, and make sure your tech knows how to handle the Face ID sensors with care. Your eyes—and your battery—will thank you.