You’re probably going to drive right through it. Most people do. They sit on a Giant Ibis bus or a private Camry, eyes glued to a phone or a book, as they transit between the chaos of Phnom Penh and the temple-heavy tourist magnet of Siem Reap. Kampong Thom Province is often treated as the "bathroom break" of Cambodia. A place to stretch your legs, grab a questionable bag of fried insects at a roadside stop, and then move on.
But honestly? You’re missing the best part of the country.
I’ve spent enough time in the dust and the heat of central Cambodia to know that Kampong Thom isn’t just a pitstop. It’s the second-largest province in the country for a reason. It’s where the "Old Cambodia"—the pre-Angkorian stuff—actually lives. If you want to see where the Khmer Empire really started, you don't go to Angkor Wat. You go to the woods in Kampong Thom.
Why Sambor Prei Kuk Is Actually Better Than Angkor
Okay, "better" is a strong word. But hear me out. If you’ve been to Angkor Wat, you’ve dealt with the selfie sticks. You’ve had five different people try to sell you a "same same" t-shirt before 8:00 AM.
Sambor Prei Kuk is different.
This place was the capital of the Chenla Kingdom back in the 7th century, long before the big names like Jayavarman VII were even a thought. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, but it feels like a secret. You’re walking through a forest where the trees haven't just grown near the temples; they’ve swallowed them. Octagonal brick towers—which are super rare, by the way—poke out of the jungle canopy like something out of a 1920s explorer’s diary.
I remember standing at Prasat Chrey. The roots of a massive banyan tree are literally strangling the brickwork, holding it together while simultaneously tearing it apart. There was no one else there. Just the sound of cicadas and the smell of damp earth. That’s the kind of "Indiana Jones" vibe people think they’ll get at Ta Prohm in Siem Reap, but they don't because there are 400 other people in the shot.
The brickwork here is mind-blowing. Unlike the later sandstone temples of Angkor, these were built with small, red bricks and a mysterious "natural glue" that we still haven't fully figured out. In 2025, conservation teams at the ICC-Sambor Prei Kuk sessions highlighted new efforts to stabilize these structures using traditional materials. It’s a delicate balance. If you go, hire a local community guide. It’s like $10, and they know which paths lead to the towers that aren't even on the main map yet.
The 807 Steps to a Better View
If you aren't tired of stairs, you have to hit Phnom Santuk. It’s this sacred mountain about 17 kilometers south of the main town, Stung Saen.
807 steps.
That sounds like a lot, and in 35°C heat, it feels like a lot. But the monkeys will keep you company (and probably try to steal your water, so watch out). At the top, you don’t just get a view; you get a weirdly beautiful mix of ancient reclining Buddhas carved directly into the rock and vibrant, kitschy modern shrines. It’s where the locals go to pray and hang out.
The view from the summit across the Tonle Sap floodplains is the real winner. You see the "real" Cambodia—a patchwork of emerald rice paddies, sugar palms, and the winding Stung Sen River. It’s flat. Impossibly flat. And it’s gorgeous.
Eating Your Way Through Stung Saen
Most travelers stay in Stung Saen, the provincial capital. It’s a quiet town, but the food scene is surprisingly legit if you know where to look. Basically, don't just eat at your guesthouse.
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Go to the Kampong Thom Market in the morning. It’s sensory overload. You’ve got piles of prahok (the fermented fish paste that is the soul of Khmer cooking) sitting next to pyramids of dragon fruit. Look for someone selling Nom Banh Chok. It’s a cold rice noodle soup topped with a green fish gravy. It’s the breakfast of champions here.
And then there's the cashew nuts. Kampong Thom is the cashew capital of Cambodia. You’ll see them drying on blue tarps in front of houses everywhere. They are buttery, massive, and dirt cheap compared to what you pay at home.
A Quick Word on the Bats
Behind the market, near the old French Governor’s residence, there are these massive mahogany trees. At dusk, thousands of fruit bats—flying foxes, really—wake up. They make a racket. Then, they all take off at once to go forage. It’s a National Geographic moment in the middle of a sleepy town. The Governor’s house itself is this eerie, colonial-era building that’s mostly locked up, but it adds to the whole "forgotten outpost" feel of the place.
How to Actually Do This Right
Don't just stay one night. Everyone stays one night. The Cambodian government is currently pushing a "Time Trap Strategy" for the 2026-2030 tourism plan to get people to stay longer. They’re right to do it.
- Transport: Take a shared taxi or a bus from Phnom Penh (it’s about 3 hours). If you’re feeling fancy, book a private car, but the road (National Road 6) is actually one of the best in the country now.
- Base Yourself: Stay in Stung Saen. The hotels are basic but clean. The Arunras Guesthouse is the "old reliable" for most backpackers, but there are better boutique options popping up along the river.
- The Hidden Giant: If you have an extra day, find a moto-driver to take you to Preah Khan of Kompong Svay. Warning: it’s a mission. It’s way out in the bush, and the road can be a nightmare in the rainy season. But it’s the largest single temple complex ever built during the Angkorian era. Most people don’t even know it exists.
The Reality Check
Look, Kampong Thom isn't polished. The dust is real. The internet can be spotty. Sometimes the power goes out for an hour in the afternoon. It’s a working province where people grow rice and process cashews.
But that’s the draw.
While Siem Reap is a "tourist zone," Kampong Thom is Cambodia. You’ll get genuine smiles from people who aren't just trying to sell you a cold coconut. You’ll see the sun set over a floodplain that looks the same as it did in the 7th century.
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Next Steps for You: If you're planning your 2026 Cambodia route, don't just book a through-ticket to Siem Reap. Search for a guesthouse in Stung Saen for two nights. Book a moto-remorque (tuk-tuk) for a full day at Sambor Prei Kuk, and tell them you want to see the "north group" of temples. You’ll have the ruins to yourself while the rest of the world is fighting for a spot at Angkor Wat.