When most folks think about North Korea, they picture the gray, monolithic concrete of Pyongyang. But if you actually look at a map—or better yet, talk to someone who has actually spent time on the ground there—you’ll realize the real "soul" of the country is tucked away in the east. I'm talking about Kangwon Province.
It’s a weird, beautiful, and sometimes tragic place.
You’ve got high-end ski resorts where the elite sip coffee, sitting right next to "seaside" vacation zones that have been under construction for what feels like a decade. It is a province of total contradictions. One minute you’re looking at the jagged, mystical peaks of Mount Kumgang, and the next, you’re staring at a rusted fishing boat in Wonsan.
The Wonsan-Kalma Gamble: 2026 and the New "Beach Life"
Let’s get real about Wonsan. For years, the North Korean government has been obsessed with turning the Kalma Peninsula into a world-class beach destination. We're talking miles of hotels, water slides, and white sand.
Honestly, it’s been a bit of a joke in the international media because of the constant delays. But as of late 2025 and heading into 2026, things have actually shifted. The Wonsan-Kalma Coastal Tourist Area officially opened its doors last summer.
It’s a massive project. Four kilometers of coastline. Capacity for 20,000 people.
The goal? Attract tourists from Russia, China, and even further afield. In fact, the 2026 tourism calendars specifically target travelers from places like Germany and Canada, which sounds wild given the current geopolitics. Whether they actually show up is a different story, but the infrastructure is there now. If you’re a traveler who likes "frontier" destinations, this is the crown jewel.
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Masikryong: Skiing in the Hermit Kingdom
About 24 kilometers outside of Wonsan city, you hit the Masikryong Ski Resort.
I’ve seen the footage and the reports—it’s oddly luxurious. We’re talking about a summit at 1,360 meters and about 110 kilometers of total runs. They even have a "Masikryong Hotel" with 120 rooms, a swimming pool, and (wait for it) a karaoke bar.
It’s not exactly Aspen.
You won’t find high-speed gondolas everywhere; it’s mostly chairlifts. But the 40-degree slopes are no joke. The season runs from November through March, and lately, it’s been a hotspot for Russian tour groups who can’t easily travel to Europe anymore. It’s a surreal mix of high-end sports culture and the rigid atmosphere of Kangwon.
What Happened to Mount Kumgang?
This is the sad part of the Kangwon story. Mount Kumgang, or "Diamond Mountain," used to be the symbol of hope for North and South Korean cooperation.
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Back in the early 2000s, South Koreans could just hop on a bus and go hiking there. Those days are gone. Totally gone.
Since 2022, North Korea has been systematically tearing down South Korean-built hotels and facilities. The famous floating Haegumgang Hotel? Gone. The golf resort? Razed. By early 2024, Pyongyang basically said unification was impossible and shut down the international tourism administration for the mountain.
Now, they are redeveloping it on their own terms. They want to link it to the Wonsan-Kalma zone to create one giant "Eastern Coast Tourism Belt." It’s beautiful, jagged, and full of ancient Buddhist temples like Singye, but the political wall between the North and South portions of the mountain has never been higher.
Beyond the Resorts: The 20x10 Reality
You can’t talk about Kangwon Province North Korea without mentioning how people actually live.
While the resorts get the headlines, the province is part of a massive industrial push called the "20x10 Initiative." Basically, the government is building new factories in 20 counties every year for ten years.
In Kangwon, this has hit places like Sepho and Kosan.
It’s a bit of a double-edged sword. On one hand, you get new food and clothing factories. On the other hand, satellite images show these factories are often built right on top of prime agricultural land. In a place where food security is always a conversation, that’s a risky move.
Quick Facts about Kangwon
- Capital: Wonsan (a major port and industrial hub).
- Geography: Dominated by the Taebaek Mountains.
- Agriculture: Mostly rice, corn, and persimmons (the persimmons here are legendary).
- Industry: Shipbuilding, cement, and lately, heavy tourism.
The "New" 2026 Travel Scene
If you’re actually looking into visiting, things are... complicated.
Most Westerners are still barred from entry by their own governments (like the US travel ban), but the province is wide open for Russian and Chinese groups. The Pyongyang International Marathon in April 2026 is usually the big "in" for foreigners, and many of those tours include a side trip to Wonsan or Masikryong.
It’s not a relaxing vacation. You’re always with guides. You see what they want you to see. But the natural beauty of the Kangwon coastline is undeniable. It’s some of the most pristine water in East Asia, mainly because there isn't much heavy industry right on the beach yet.
Making Sense of It All
Kangwon is the testing ground for Kim Jong Un’s "new" North Korea. It’s where they try to prove they can build a modern, high-end economy without leaning on the West.
Whether it’s the high-tech ski lifts at Masikryong or the brand-new factories in Sepho, the province is changing faster than almost anywhere else in the country. It’s a weird mix of ancient mountains, brutal history, and flashy new resorts.
Practical Steps for Interested Observers:
- Monitor the Wonsan-Kalma flight paths: Keep an eye on Air Koryo’s flight schedules to Wonsan-Kalma airport; it’s the best indicator of how "real" the tourism push actually is.
- Check Sanctions Updates: If you're a business or researcher, note that the luxury goods used in these resorts often trigger specific UN sanctions reports.
- Look for "Gwandong" references: When researching history, search for "Gwandong region"—this is the traditional name for the area encompassing both North and South Kangwon/Gangwon.
The era of North-South cooperation at Mount Kumgang is dead, but the era of the North Korean "Red Sea" (or East Sea) resort life is just starting. It’s going to be a fascinating, if not slightly unsettling, transformation to watch.