Honestly, standing at the base of the Kim Il Sung statue on Mansu Hill is a weirdly overwhelming experience. You’ve seen the photos, sure. But nothing prepares you for the sheer scale of twenty meters of bronze staring down at you from a pedestal. It's not just a piece of art; for North Koreans, it's basically the center of their spiritual universe.
Most people think it’s just a stagnant hunk of metal that’s been there forever.
Actually, it has changed quite a bit since 1972.
The Gold Leaf Controversy
When the original statue of Kim Il Sung was first unveiled to celebrate his 60th birthday, it wasn't the bronze finish we see today. It was covered in shimmering gold leaf.
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The story goes that when Chinese leader Deng Xiaoping visited in the late 70s, he was less than impressed. China was bankrolling a lot of North Korea’s economy at the time. Seeing a massive gold-plated statue while the country was struggling for resources didn't sit well. Not long after that visit, the gold was stripped off and replaced with the bronze finish.
Why the Outfit Changed
If you look at photos from before 2012, the Kim Il Sung statue looks different. He used to wear a "Mao suit" (Zhongshan suit) and looked much younger and more stern.
After Kim Jong Il passed away in 2011, the regime decided to add a second statue. While they were at it, they completely swapped out the original Kim Il Sung. Now, he’s depicted as an older, smiling statesman wearing a Western-style suit and glasses.
[Image showing the 2012 renovation of the Mansudae Grand Monument with both statues]
Beside him stands Kim Jong Il. Even that statue had a "wardrobe" change. Originally, the Kim Jong Il statue wore a long formal overcoat. Within a year, it was swapped for his signature Vinalon parka. It's the greyish jacket he was famous for wearing during his "on-the-spot guidance" tours.
The Rules are No Joke
Visiting this spot isn't like visiting the Statue of Liberty or the Eiffel Tower. You don't just wander up and take a selfie.
First off, you have to walk up the hill in a somber, organized line. No running. No shouting. Definitely no chewing gum. Your guides will likely insist that you buy a bouquet of flowers (usually about 5 Euros) to lay at the feet of the "Great Leaders."
Then comes the bow.
Everyone bows in unison. If you aren't prepared to do this, you simply won't be allowed on the site.
Photography: The Full Body Rule
This is where tourists usually get into trouble. North Korean minders are incredibly strict about how you frame your shots of the Kim Il Sung statue.
- You must capture the entire statue from head to toe.
- You cannot crop out the feet.
- You cannot zoom in just on the face.
- You cannot mimic the pose of the statue (pointing or waving).
If you try to take a "funny" photo or a close-up, don't be surprised if a soldier or a guide asks to see your camera and deletes the image on the spot. They view the statues as living embodiments of the leaders, so "cutting" their legs off in a photo is seen as a literal insult.
More Than Just Two Men
While the two giants get all the attention, the whole complex—the Mansudae Grand Monument—is actually massive.
Behind the bronze figures is a 70-meter-wide mosaic of Mount Paektu. This is the "sacred mountain of the revolution" where the regime claims Kim Jong Il was born (though historians generally point to a Soviet camp near Khabarovsk).
On either side of the main statues, there are two long rows of smaller sculptures. There are 229 figures in total. These bronze soldiers and workers represent the struggle against Japanese occupation and the rebuilding of the country after the Korean War. They’re about five meters tall each, which would be huge anywhere else, but they look tiny next to the main event.
What Most Visitors Miss
If you look past the statues to the right, you’ll see the Chollima Statue.
It’s a winged horse with a worker and a peasant riding on its back. It represents the "Chollima Speed"—the idea that North Koreans can work with the speed of a mythical horse that can cover 400 kilometers in a day. It’s a bit of a relic from the post-war era, but it’s arguably more artistically interesting than the central bronze giants.
Practical Realities for Travelers
If you're planning to see this in person, keep a few things in mind.
The site is kept spotlessly clean. You’ll often see groups of women or students scrubbing the pavement with hand brushes. It’s a way of showing "devotion."
Also, the atmosphere is incredibly quiet. Even though it's in the middle of Pyongyang, the traffic on the nearby streets is often diverted or slowed down to maintain the "solemnity" of the hill.
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Next Steps for Your Visit:
- Dress the Part: You don't need a tuxedo, but looking "tidy" is a requirement. Avoid ripped jeans or flip-flops.
- Bring Small Euro Bills: The flower stalls at the bottom of the hill usually prefer small denominations of Euros or Chinese Yuan.
- Check Your Framing: Before you leave the site, check your digital camera roll. If you have any "half-body" shots of the statues, delete them yourself. It saves a lot of awkwardness at the airport later when guards check your phone or SD cards.