You've probably been there. You are standing in the middle of a stunning landscape, or maybe at a family wedding, and you want to get that high-quality shot onto your phone now. Not in an hour. Not when you get home to your laptop. Right this second. That is basically the entire promise of the Olympus Image Share app (or OI.Share as the icons usually say).
But honestly? Most people just use it as a glorified file mover. They open it, wait for the Wi-Fi to struggle, grab three JPEGs, and never touch the other menus. That’s a mistake. This app is actually a weirdly powerful remote rig and a firmware manager, even if the interface feels a bit like it’s stuck in 2018.
The Connection Headache Nobody Tells You About
Let’s get the frustrating part out of the way first. Connecting your camera to your phone shouldn't feel like hacking into a secure mainframe.
If you’re using an OM-1 or a newer Google Pixel, you might have noticed the app just... dies. It connects for a second and then poof—gone. Kinda annoying, right? The secret fix that most forums mention involves diving into your camera’s Wi-Fi settings (usually under the wrench menu) and switching the security from WPA3 to WPA2. Some modern phones are just too "smart" for the camera's default encryption.
Also, stop trying to manually type in passwords. Use the QR code. You hit the Wi-Fi icon on your camera screen, open the Olympus Image Share app, and scan it. It registers the specific UUID of your camera. One thing to keep in mind: the app really prefers being "married" to one camera. If you’re a gear head with an OM-5 and an E-M10, switching between them in the app is sorta like a messy divorce. You often have to "deregister" one to get the other to play nice.
Remote Shooting is More Than a Selfie Button
Most people use the remote shutter to avoid being the one person missing from the group photo. That’s fine. But the "Live View" mode is where the real magic is for macro or tripod work.
Imagine you’re shooting a flower at a weird angle. You don't want to lie in the dirt to see the LCD. You can prop your phone up and literally pull focus from the screen.
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- Remote Shutter Mode: Basically a wireless cable release. Use this when you want to save battery and don't need to see the image.
- Live View Mode: This mirrors the sensor to your phone. You can change your aperture, ISO, and even white balance without touching the dials.
I’ve found that using the "Custom" settings via the app is actually faster than digging through the "Super Control Panel" on the back of the camera when it's mounted on a high tripod.
Moving Photos (and the RAW Problem)
Transferring images is the bread and butter of the Olympus Image Share app. You hit "Import Photos," and you get a grid of your day.
Here is the kicker: for the longest time, you couldn't move RAW files. If you shot only in RAW, the app would just show you a blank screen. It was infuriating. Now, newer bodies like the OM-1 Mark II or the TG-7 allow RAW transfer, but honestly, it’s slow. Like, "go make a sandwich" slow.
If you're on an older body like an E-M5 Mark II, you must shoot JPEG+RAW or use the in-camera RAW development to create a JPEG before the app will even acknowledge the photo exists.
Quick Workflow Tip
Use the "Share Order" function while you're still out shooting. On your camera, when reviewing a photo, hit the "OK" button or the dedicated share button. This marks it. Then, when you eventually open the app, it’ll ask if you want to just import the marked ones. It saves you from scrolling through 400 burst-fire shots of a bird that moved.
The Features Everyone Ignores
Did you know you can edit photos inside the app? Probably not. It has a "Color Creator" and "Art Filters" section.
It feels a bit redundant if you have Lightroom Mobile, but the Olympus Image Share app lets you apply those specific Olympus Art Filters—like Grainy Film or Dramatic Tone—after the shot is taken. If you realized that sunset looked a bit flat, you can throw on a "Pop Art" filter in the app and it looks surprisingly decent for a quick Instagram story.
Then there’s the "Signature" tool. You can literally draw your signature on the phone screen and overlay it as a watermark on your photos before you export them. It’s a bit niche, but if you’re worried about people "borrowing" your work on Facebook, it’s a 10-second fix.
Is it Still Relevant in 2026?
With OM System taking over the brand, the app has been rebranded as "OM Image Share" in some stores, but the core "OI.Share" DNA is the same. It’s a tool built for a specific purpose. It isn't as slick as a social media app, and the Wi-Fi battery drain is very real. If you leave the connection active, expect your camera battery to drop 10% every 15 minutes.
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But for getting a high-res shot of a rare bird or a family moment onto a phone for a quick text? It’s indispensable.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Update your firmware: Use the app to check if your lens or body needs an update. It’s way easier than the old USB-to-PC method.
- Toggle WPA2: If your phone won't stay connected, go into the camera's Wi-Fi settings and downgrade the security protocol to WPA2.
- Test Remote Live View: Mount your camera on a table, walk into the other room, and see how far the signal reaches. It’s usually about 30 feet, which is perfect for birdwatching from inside the house.
- Use Share Order: Start marking your favorite "keepers" in-camera so you don't waste time hunting for them in the app later.