Relais Blu: What Most People Get Wrong About This Massa Lubrense Icon

Relais Blu: What Most People Get Wrong About This Massa Lubrense Icon

If you’re hunting for a hotel in Sorrento, you’re basically fighting a losing battle against the crowds. Most people book a room right in the center of town, thinking they’ll get that classic "Dolce Vita" experience, but honestly? They usually end up with noisy scooters, overpriced Limoncello shops, and a view of their neighbor’s balcony. This is why Relais Blu is such a weird, beautiful outlier in the local hotel scene. It’s technically in Massa Lubrense, specifically in the tiny hamlet of Marciano, and that distinction matters more than you’d think.

You’re at the very tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula.

Looking out from the terrace, Capri feels so close you could almost reach out and touch the Faraglioni rocks. It’s not just another four-star boutique hotel; it’s a converted Mediterranean villa that feels like it belongs to a wealthy friend who has incredibly good taste and a slight obsession with the color white.

Why the location of Relais Blu is a total game changer

Location is everything in Italy. People see "Sorrento" on a map and assume they’re in the heart of the action, but Relais Blu sits at the intersection of the Sorrento Coast and the Amalfi Coast. This is a critical nuance. If you stay in Positano, you’re trapped in a vertical maze of stairs. If you stay in Sorrento, you’re in a transport hub. But Marciano? It’s where the locals go when they want to actually breathe.

The hotel sits on a ridge.

Because of this specific geography, you get a 360-degree view that includes the Gulf of Naples and the Gulf of Salerno. It’s one of the few places on earth where you can watch the sun set directly behind Capri. Most hotels in the area have "partial" sea views, which is often code for "if you lean off your balcony at a 45-degree angle, you might see blue." Here, the sea is the entire point.

There is a downside, though. You kind of need a car. Or a dedicated budget for taxis. While the hotel offers a shuttle service to Sorrento at fixed times, you aren't walking to a pharmacy or a grocery store from here. You’re isolated. For some, that’s a nightmare. For most people booking a place like this, it’s the entire reason they’re coming.

The design isn't what you expect from Southern Italy

When you think of Sorrento hotels, you probably picture heavy brocade curtains, dark wood furniture, and maybe some dusty ceramics from the 1970s. Relais Blu flipped the script. It is aggressively minimalist.

We are talking white-on-white.

Everything is sleek, sharp, and modern. It feels more like a contemporary art gallery in Chelsea than a seaside villa in Campania. This can feel a little "cold" to some travelers who want that rustic Italian charm, but the minimalist vibe is intentional. It’s designed to be a blank canvas so that the blue of the Mediterranean—the Blu in the name—is the only color that pops.

The Michelin-starred elephant in the room

You can't talk about this place without mentioning the food. For a long time, the restaurant here held a Michelin star, and while stars can come and go depending on the season and the chef shuffle, the culinary philosophy remains the same. It’s high-end, experimental, and expensive.

Honestly, even if you aren't staying at the hotel, people drive from all over the peninsula just to have a drink on the terrace. The cocktail list is solid, but the wine cellar is where the real nerds hang out. They have over 1,000 labels.

If you do eat here, don't expect a giant bowl of "Grandma's pasta." This is fine dining. Think deconstructed Mediterranean flavors, local red prawns, and foams. If you want a massive plate of Gnocchi alla Sorrentina for ten euros, you’ll need to drive down into the village of Termini or Sant’Agata. Relais Blu is about the experience of the meal, not just refueling after a hike.

The Room Situation: A nuanced breakdown

There are only 15 rooms. That’s it.

This is why the service feels so personal. The staff knows if you like your espresso with a side of sparkling water before you even ask. But because it’s an old villa, the room layouts aren't uniform.

  1. Special Rooms: These usually have the massive terraces. If you're going to splurge, this is where you do it. Having a private hot tub overlooking the sea while the sun goes down is basically the peak human experience.
  2. Superior and Deluxe: These are great, but smaller. They still maintain that "all-white" aesthetic, which makes them feel larger than they actually are.
  3. The "Vibe": Expect high-quality linens, Bang & Olufsen sound systems (usually), and Hermès or similar high-end toiletries.

One thing people often overlook is the acoustics. Because the hotel is so small and tucked away, it’s quiet. Like, really quiet. No traffic noise, no shouting tourists. Just the wind and the occasional boat engine in the distance.

What most people get wrong about the "Sorrento" experience

The biggest mistake travelers make is using Relais Blu as a base to see everything in five days. They try to do Pompeii on Monday, Capri on Tuesday, Positano on Wednesday, and Naples on Thursday.

You’ll burn out.

The roads around Massa Lubrense are narrow. They’re winding. They’re terrifying if you aren't used to Italian drivers who treat center lines as mere suggestions. If you spend your whole trip in a car or on a bus, you’re missing the point of staying at a Relais & Châteaux property. This is a place for "Il Dolce Far Niente"—the sweetness of doing nothing.

Real talk about the price point

Look, it’s not cheap. You’re paying for the view and the exclusivity. During peak season (July and August), prices can get pretty astronomical. Is it worth it?

If you’re a honeymooner or celebrating a 20th anniversary, yes. If you’re a backpacker trying to "see Italy on a budget," you’re going to feel like you’re burning money. You have to value the quiet. You have to value the fact that you aren't sharing a pool with 200 other people.

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The pool, by the way, is an infinity pool that seems to drop straight into the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s small, but because there are only 15 rooms, it rarely feels crowded.

Expert Tips for a Relais Blu stay

If you're actually going to pull the trigger and book this, there are a few things you should know that aren't in the brochure.

First, the hike to Punta Campanella is right there. This is the literal tip of the peninsula. It’s a rocky, dusty trail that leads to an old watchtower and the ruins of a temple dedicated to Minerva. It is one of the most underrated hikes in Italy. Do it early in the morning before the heat becomes unbearable.

Second, the "Capri Boat Trip." Don't take the big ferry from Sorrento. Ask the hotel to arrange a private or semi-private gozzo (a traditional wooden boat) from the harbor at Massa Lubrense or Nerano. It’s a much more intimate way to see the Blue Grotto and the hidden coves that the big tour groups can’t reach.

Third, explore the local "Agriturismos" for dinner. While the hotel restaurant is incredible, you’ll want a break from the formal service. There are farms nearby that produce their own olive oil, provolone del monaco cheese, and lemons. That’s where you get the "real" food.

The logistics of getting there

Don't try to take a train to the door.

You take the Trenitalia or Italo to Naples Centrale, then you have a choice. You can take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento—which is basically a graffiti-covered commuter train that stops every three minutes—or you can book a private transfer.

If you’re staying at Relais Blu, just book the transfer. The drive from Naples takes about 90 minutes. Once you pass through the town of Sorrento and start climbing the hills toward Massa Lubrense, the air changes. It gets cooler. The scent of lemon blossoms and pine needles starts coming through the window.

Why this hotel still matters in 2026

In an era of "Instagrammable" hotels that are all style and no substance, this place has stayed relevant because it actually delivers on the promise of privacy. It’s not a "see and be seen" place like the Sirenuse in Positano. It’s a "disappear and be forgotten" place.

The staff doesn't hover. They aren't trying to upsell you on tours every five minutes. There is a sense of restraint here that is rare in Italian hospitality.

Actionable insights for your trip

  • Book the "Sea View" specifically: Don't gamble on a cheaper room category if you're coming this far. The view is 90% of the value proposition.
  • Rent a small car: If you decide to drive, get a Fiat 500 or something tiny. The roads to Marciano are not friendly to SUVs.
  • Time your visit: Late May or September are the "sweet spots." The weather is perfect (around 25°C), the water is warm enough to swim in, and the crushing weight of the summer crowds has either not arrived or just left.
  • Pack light but smart: You'll want linen for the day and something "smart casual" for dinner. The hotel is relaxed, but people do dress up for the evening cocktail hour.
  • Download offline maps: GPS can be flaky in the cliffs of the peninsula. Having a downloaded map of Massa Lubrense will save you from a lot of stressful U-turns.
  • Budget for extras: Taxis from the hotel to Sorrento can run 40-60 euros each way. Factor this into your daily spend if you plan on leaving the property often.

Relais Blu isn't for everyone. It’s for the person who finds the chaos of the Amalfi Coast exhausting and wants a front-row seat to the sunset without having to fight for it. It's a specific kind of luxury—one that values silence and space over gold-leafed ceilings and lobby bars. If that sounds like your speed, there isn't a better spot on the peninsula.

To make the most of your stay, contact the concierge at least two weeks in advance to book your table at the restaurant, especially if you aren't staying on a weekend. The sunset tables are the first to go, and you don't want to be stuck inside when the sky turns purple over Capri. Additionally, check the ferry schedules from the nearby Marina della Lobra if you plan on doing day trips to Ischia or Procida, as these smaller ports offer a much more relaxed departure than the frantic main pier in Sorrento.