If you’ve lived in Missouri for more than a week, you know the drill with riverboat casinos. Most of them are basically giant, windowless boxes sitting on a barge. They’re fine, but they aren't exactly "destination" spots. River City Casino & Hotel St Louis is the weird exception to that rule. Located in Lemay, just south of the city proper, it doesn't try to be a glitzy Las Vegas clone. Honestly, it feels more like a movie set for a 1900s river town. It's built on the site of the old National City stockyards, and that sense of history—even if it's manufactured—actually makes the place feel grounded.
People come here for the gambling. Obviously. But if you're just looking at the slot machines, you're missing the point of why this specific spot dominates the South County skyline.
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The Gaming Floor is Massive—And Loud
Walking onto the floor at River City Casino & Hotel St Louis is a bit of a sensory overload. We're talking 90,000 square feet of gaming space. That is roughly the size of one and a half football fields. It’s huge. You’ve got about 1,900 slot machines ranging from those classic penny slots that your grandma loves to high-limit rooms where people drop five-figure bets without blinking.
It's loud. The bells, the synthetic music, the chatter.
But what’s actually impressive is the layout. Penn Entertainment (the owners) spent a lot of money making sure it doesn't feel like a labyrinth. You can actually find the exit without a GPS, which is more than I can say for some of the casinos downtown. The table games are where the real energy lives, though. You have about 55 tables. Blackjack, craps, roulette—the standard stuff—but their poker room is arguably one of the most consistent in the Midwest. They host the Heartland Poker Tour occasionally, and on a Friday night, the tension at those tables is thick enough to cut with a steak knife.
Is it smoky? Yeah. It’s a casino. They have a massive air filtration system that works harder than a solo parent on a Monday, but you’re still going to smell a bit like a Marlboro Red if you stay long enough. If that bothers you, the non-smoking sections are decent, but they aren't the heart of the action.
Where You Actually Sleep: The Hotel Vibe
Most people forget the "Hotel" part of River City Casino & Hotel St Louis until they’ve had one too many drinks at Judy’s Velvet Lounge. There are 200 rooms here. It’s not a massive resort like you’d find in Orlando, but that’s a good thing. It feels more like a boutique experience.
The rooms are surprisingly plush.
Seriously.
They went with this "Cupples Station" industrial aesthetic—exposed-looking textures, dark woods, and high-end linens. You get these massive floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook either the Mississippi River or the woods of Lemay. Waking up and seeing the fog roll off the Mississippi while you’re in a king-sized bed is a vibe you can’t get at a suburban Marriott.
The bathrooms are the real winner, though. Giant walk-in showers with rain heads. It’s the kind of shower that makes you want to stay in there until your skin turns into a prune. If you’re booking, try to snag a suite. They’re often used as "comps" for high rollers, but if you're visiting for an anniversary, the extra space and the wet bar make it feel like a legitimate getaway rather than just a place to crash after losing twenty bucks on video poker.
The Food Situation: More Than Just Buffets
We need to talk about the 1904 Steakhouse. It’s named after the World's Fair, of course. Everything in St. Louis is. But this isn't just "casino food." It’s a legitimate contender for one of the best steakhouses in the metro area. They have a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, which isn't easy to get.
The steaks are dry-aged. The service is that old-school, "yes sir, no ma'am" style that feels increasingly rare.
If you aren't feeling fancy, you’ve got options:
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- The Beerhouse: This is basically a tribute to St. Louis brewing history. They have something like 100 different beers. Get the pretzels.
- Cibare Italian Kitchen: Solid pasta. It’s comfort food. Nothing groundbreaking, but it hits the spot when you're tired.
- Asia Gourmet: Surprisingly good pho. It’s weird eating traditional Vietnamese soup in a casino, but it works.
- Burger Brothers: Quick, greasy, and perfect for 1:00 AM.
The one thing people miss? The buffet. River City used to have one of the best in the city, but like many things post-2020, the traditional "all you can eat" model shifted. Now, the focus is more on these standalone restaurants, which honestly, is probably better for your arteries anyway.
The Local Impact and Why Location Matters
River City Casino & Hotel St Louis didn't just appear out of thin air. It was a massive $380 million investment that completely changed Lemay. Before this, that stretch of the river was mostly industrial decay. Now, it’s a tax revenue powerhouse for St. Louis County.
There’s a park nearby—Lemay Park—and the Greenway trails. You can actually take a walk outside without feeling like you’re in a concrete wasteland. This matters because it gives the property air. It doesn't feel suffocated.
However, there’s a nuance here. Traffic can be a nightmare. If there’s a concert at the Event Center, South Broadway becomes a parking lot. The Event Center holds about 1,400 people. It’s intimate. You’ll see acts like Rick Springfield, The Isley Brothers, or various comedians. Because it’s smaller, there isn't a bad seat in the house, but getting out of the parking garage after a show requires the patience of a saint.
Misconceptions About the "River" Part
A lot of people ask if the casino is actually on the water. Technically, yes. Due to Missouri’s weird gambling laws, these places have to be over water. But don't expect to feel the sway of the waves. It’s a "boat in a moat." You’re on a floating concrete slab built into a basin. You won't get seasick.
Another thing: people think River City is "dangerous" because it's near the city limits. Honestly? It’s one of the most heavily policed and surveilled spots in the county. Between their private security and the local PD presence, it’s arguably safer than most mall parking lots. Just use common sense. Don't leave your winnings sitting on the passenger seat of your car.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
If you’re actually going to head down to River City Casino & Hotel St Louis, don’t just walk in and start pulling levers.
- Get the MyChoice Card: Even if you hate loyalty programs. It gets you discounts on food immediately. Sometimes it'll even cover your parking if you play enough.
- Check the Event Calendar: If there’s a mid-week show, the room rates at the hotel drop significantly. You can find a luxury stay for a fraction of the weekend price.
- Eat at the Bar: If the 1904 Steakhouse is full (which it often is), you can usually sit at the bar. You get the full menu and faster service without a reservation.
- Explore the Greenway: If you’re staying overnight, bring walking shoes. The Great Rivers Greenway connects right near the property. It’s a great way to clear your head after being in the neon glow of the casino floor for six hours.
- Watch the Limits: Table minimums jump on Friday and Saturday nights. If you’re a $5 blackjack player, you’re going to be disappointed when every table is $15 or $25 after 7:00 PM. Go on a Tuesday morning if you want the cheap seats.
River City isn't just a place to gamble. It's a weird, beautiful slice of St. Louis culture that manages to feel upscale without being pretentious. It’s a bit gritty around the edges, a lot of fun, and definitely better than your average riverboat. Whether you're there for a ribeye at 1904 or a late-night run at the craps table, it’s a destination that actually lives up to the marketing.
For those planning a stay, book directly through their portal rather than third-party sites. The "comp" system is much more generous when the casino sees you booked through them. Also, keep an eye on the seasonal promotions—they often run "stay and play" packages that include dining credits which basically pay for your dinner. Just remember to set a limit, stick to it, and enjoy the view of the river. It’s one of the best sights in the city.