You’ve probably heard the rumors that Caneel Bay is a ghost town. Honestly, they’re mostly right. Since the back-to-back hurricanes of 2017, the once-glitzy resort has been a tangle of ruins and legal tape. But here’s the thing: Scott Beach St John is still there. It hasn't gone anywhere. And because the land access is technically restricted while the National Park Service (NPS) figures out the redevelopment, it has turned into a private playground for anyone with a kayak or a dinghy.
If you hate crowds, this is your spot. While Trunk Bay is packed with cruise ship passengers and Maho is elbow-to-elbow with people trying to touch sea turtles (please don't do that), Scott Beach is silent. It's eerie. It's beautiful.
The Weird Legal Limbo of Scott Beach
Let’s get the "can I go there?" question out of the way. As of early 2026, the situation is... complicated. For decades, Scott Beach was part of the exclusive Caneel Bay Resort, founded by Laurance Rockefeller. It was "adults only" back then. After the resort was destroyed, a massive legal battle broke out over who actually owned the land.
The National Park Service officially took over the 150-acre peninsula in 2024, but they haven't opened the gates to the public for Scott Beach yet. Why? Because the old resort buildings are full of asbestos and lead. It’s a literal hazard zone.
But here is the loophole: In the U.S. Virgin Islands, all beaches are public up to the high-tide line.
You can’t walk through the resort gates and hike to Scott Beach right now. You can’t wander into the ruins of the old beachfront suites. But you can absolutely pull up in a boat. If your feet are in the sand and you stay near the water, you are legally golden.
How to Actually Get to Scott Beach St John
Most people see the "Closed" signs at the Caneel Bay entrance and keep driving. That’s their mistake. You have three real options to hit Scott Beach without trespassing:
- Rent a Dinghy in Cruz Bay: This is the pro move. Rent a 15-foot whaler for the day. It’s about a 10-minute zip around the point. You’ll pass Honeymoon and Caneel Beach, then round the rocky outcropping to find Scott.
- Kayak from Honeymoon: You can rent a kayak at the Honeymoon Beach Club. It’s a bit of a workout, especially if the wind is kicking up from the east, but it’s doable.
- Private Charter: If you’re doing a "Best of St. John" boat day, tell your captain you want to stop at Scott. Most won't suggest it because they’d rather go to Lime Out (the floating taco bar), but Scott is better for pure scenery.
The Snorkeling is Ridiculous
I’m not exaggerating when I say Scott Beach has some of the best snorkeling on the North Shore. Because there’s no land traffic, the marine life has completely reclaimed the bay.
The beach is a long, thin crescent of white sand, but the real action is in the seagrass beds right off the center of the shore. This is a massive "turtle pasture." On my last visit, I counted seven green sea turtles within twenty feet of each other. They’re used to people, but since they see so few of them lately, they’re incredibly chill.
What you’ll see underwater:
- Green and Hawksbill Turtles: Constantly munching on the grass.
- Spotted Eagle Rays: Look for the white dots on their backs; they love the sandy patches here.
- The "Cottage Point" Reef: If you swim toward the right side of the beach (facing the water), the rocks hold a surprising amount of live coral and schools of blue tangs.
The "Vibe" in 2026
It feels like the end of the world, in a good way. You’ll see the skeletons of the old guest rooms. Some still have curtains flapping in the wind. It’s a bit haunting to realize this used to be one of the most expensive zip codes in the Caribbean.
There are no bathrooms. No bars. No chair rentals. If you go, you need to bring every drop of water and every snack you’ll need. Basically, it’s "Old St. John." It’s what the island felt like before the mega-villas took over.
What Most People Get Wrong
A common misconception is that you can hike over from Honeymoon Beach. People try it. They see a path and think, "I'll just nip over the hill."
Don't. The NPS rangers are pretty active on the property, and they’re strict about the "Closed" areas due to the ongoing environmental cleanup. Plus, the brush has grown back so thick since 2017 that you’re likely to end up covered in catch-and-keep thorns or accidentally stumbling into a pile of structural debris.
Stick to the water. The view of the sunset from a boat anchored off Scott Beach is arguably the best on the island because you’re looking straight toward St. Thomas and the Hans Lollik islands.
Planning Your Move
If you're heading to St. John this season, keep a close eye on the NPS Caneel Bay redevelopment updates. There’s talk of a "phased opening" where land access might return by late 2026 or 2027, but "Virgin Islands Time" is real. Things move slowly.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit:
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- Check the Weather: Scott Beach is protected from northern swells, but if the wind is coming from the West (unusual but happens), the water gets murky.
- Go Early: Aim to be there by 9:00 AM. By noon, a few charter boats might drop anchor, but the early morning light is when the turtles are most active.
- Reef-Safe Sunscreen Only: The NPS doesn't play around with this. Use non-nano zinc oxide. The coral here is finally recovering; don't be the person who kills it with chemicals.
- Anchor Responsibly: If you’re in a dinghy, use the white mooring balls if available. Never drop an anchor in the seagrass—that’s the turtles’ dinner table.
Scott Beach St John isn't the easiest beach to reach, and that’s exactly why it’s the best one left. It requires effort. It requires a boat. But once you’re floating in that turquoise water with nothing but the sound of the wind through the ruins, you’ll realize why Rockefeller picked this exact spot sixty years ago. It’s perfect.