It’s the middle of the night over the Atlantic. You’re staring at a seat that looks more like a white leather cocoon than a traditional business class chair. Honestly, the first time you step into the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class 787 cabin, it’s a bit of a head-scratcher. The seats don't face the windows. They face the aisle.
Most people see this "herringbone" layout and immediately think it’s a mistake. They’ve heard the 787-9 is the "old" product compared to the fancy new A350 or the A330neo with its sliding doors and "Retreat Suites." And yeah, technically, they're right. This seat debuted way back in the early 2000s. But here is the thing: the 787-9 remains the backbone of Virgin’s fleet for a reason, and there are actually scenarios where you might prefer this "outdated" cabin over the shiny new ones.
Let’s get into the weeds of why this plane is so polarizing.
The Coffin Seat Reputation
The Upper Class cabin on the Dreamliner is laid out in a 1-1-1 configuration. 31 seats in total. If you are sitting in Row A, you are in the "private" section because you have your own aisle. If you’re in G or K, you’re sharing an aisle, which means you’re essentially staring at your neighbor’s feet for ten hours.
It is cozy. Some call it a "coffin."
But the leather is thick. It’s plush. Unlike the newer seats that just recline flat, the 787 seat requires you to actually get up so it can flip over into a bed. It sounds like a massive pain, right? Why would you want to stand up just to go to sleep? Because the back of the seat is a dedicated mattress. It’s not the same bumpy surface you’ve been sitting on. It is flat, wide, and surprisingly soft.
For a 12-hour haul from London to Los Angeles, that dedicated sleeping surface is a godsend.
Why the 787-9 is Different
- The Bar: This is the only place left in the fleet where you get the classic, "space-age" walk-up bar. The A350 has "The Loft" (a lounge) and the A330neo has a social space, but the 787 has a literal bar with stools.
- Window Woes: You have to crane your neck 120 degrees to see out the window. If you’re a view-lover, this plane will annoy you.
- Storage: It’s basically non-existent. You get a tiny pocket for a bottle of water and maybe a phone. Everything else goes in the overhead.
Eating at 35,000 Feet
Virgin doesn't do boring plane food. They try too hard, but in a way that’s actually charming.
You’ll start with a glass of Hambledon English sparkling wine. Not Champagne, which is a bold move, but it’s crisp and local. The menu changes every few months—right now, they’re leaning into "Very Important Plates." Think chicken and mushroom pie with truffle or a vegan poke bowl with red quinoa and avocado.
The salt and pepper shakers? They’re shaped like little planes named Wilbur and Orville. They actually have "Pinched from Virgin Atlantic" stamped on the bottom. The crew knows everyone steals them. Honestly, they usually encourage it.
The service is where Virgin usually wins. It’s less "sir/ma'am" and more "what can I get you, love?" It’s chatty. It’s fast. If you want to eat your dessert at the bar while talking to the flight attendant about their favorite spot in Cape Town, you can. You can’t really do that on a British Airways flight without feeling like you're breaking a rule.
The Clubhouse Factor
You cannot talk about the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class 787 experience without talking about the Heathrow Clubhouse.
It is, hands down, one of the best lounges in the world. There’s a pool table. There’s an outdoor deck where you can watch the planes take off while the wind ruins your hair. There are Peloton bikes if you’re the kind of person who needs to cardio before a long flight.
If you are flying out of London, use the Upper Class Wing. It’s a dedicated entrance. You get dropped off by a car, walk through a private security line, and you’re in the lounge in under ten minutes. It makes the actual flight feel like the second-best part of the day.
What’s Changing in 2026?
We’re at a turning point for this aircraft. Virgin recently announced a massive $1 billion-plus investment to retro-fit these 787s.
Starting late 2025 and into 2026, the "coffin" seats are finally going away. They’re being replaced by a design inspired by the A330neo. That means the 787-9 will eventually get the Retreat Suite—those massive front-row seats with 27-inch screens—and the rest of the cabin will get the forward-facing suites with sliding doors.
Until then, you’re playing a game of "Old vs. New."
If you’re booking a flight right now, check the seat map. If it’s 1-1-1, you’re on the classic Dreamliner. If it’s 1-2-1, you’ve lucked into one of the newly refurbished birds.
Quick Comparison: 787-9 Upper Class vs. The Rest
| Feature | 787-9 (Current) | A350-1000 | A330neo |
|---|---|---|---|
| Seat Layout | 1-1-1 (Herringbone) | 1-2-1 (Mixed) | 1-2-1 (Forward) |
| Privacy | Low (No doors) | Medium (Partial door) | High (Full door) |
| Social Space | The Bar | The Loft / The Booth | The Loft |
| Screen Size | 11.1 inch | 18.5 inch | 17.3 inch |
Is it worth the points?
If you’re using Virgin Points, the 787 is often easier to find availability on than the flagship A350 routes.
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Is it a world-class seat? No. Not anymore. Qatar’s QSuite or ANA’s "The Room" blow it out of the water for privacy. But for a night flight, that flip-over bed is actually one of the most comfortable sleeping surfaces in the sky. It doesn't have the "joins" in the cushions that modern reclining seats have, so you don't wake up with a sore lower back.
The Actionable Playbook for Your Next Trip:
- Pick Seat 1A: It is the most private seat on the plane. You have no one across the aisle from you, and you're far enough from the bar to avoid the noise.
- Pre-order the Duck: The roast duck breast is a pre-order exclusive. If you wait until you're on board, you’re stuck with the standard chicken or pasta.
- Arrivals Lounge: If you land at Heathrow in the morning, don't just go to your hotel. Use the Arrivals Lounge. You can get a full English breakfast and a power shower while they press your suit.
- Don't wait for the turn-down: If you’re tired, ask the crew to flip your bed right after the first meal. They’ll provide a mattress pad and a duvet that makes a huge difference.
The 787 Upper Class is a relic of a different era of flying—one that prioritized social drinking and "cool" over total isolation. It’s flawed, it’s cramped for storage, but it still has more personality than almost any other business class cabin in the air. Just make sure you grab those salt and pepper shakers before you land.