If you’ve ever spent time in Gwinnett County, you know things move fast. Development is constant. But then there’s Tannery Row in Buford Georgia. It’s this massive, sprawling brick landmark that feels like it’s holding its breath while the rest of the world rushes past. It’s weirdly beautiful. Honestly, it’s one of those places that could have easily been knocked down to make way for another strip mall or a generic apartment complex. Thankfully, that didn’t happen. Instead, what used to be the largest leather tannery in the southern United States is now this bizarre, eclectic mix of artists, diners, and history buffs.
Walk inside and the smell hits you. Not the smell of old cowhides—thankfully that’s long gone—but the scent of old wood, oil paint, and really good BBQ.
People come here for different reasons. Some want a wedding venue that doesn't look like a Marriott ballroom. Others are just looking for a decent steak and some live music. But if you really look at the bones of the place, you’re seeing the literal foundation of Buford. Without the Bona Allen Tannery, this town probably wouldn’t exist as we know it. It’s gritty. It’s authentic. And it’s surprisingly complicated.
The Bona Allen Legacy: More Than Just Leather
You can't talk about Tannery Row in Buford Georgia without talking about the Bona Allen Company. Founded back in 1873, this place was a behemoth. By the early 20th century, they were the kings of leather. We’re talking about a factory that produced everything from horse collars to shoes for soldiers in both World Wars.
But here’s the cool part: the Roy Rogers connection.
A lot of people think it’s just a local legend, but it's 100% true. Roy Rogers’ famous horse, Trigger, had his saddles made right here in Buford. The craftsmanship was so elite that the "Bona Allen" stamp on a saddle became the gold standard for cowboys across the country. It wasn't just a factory; it was an empire. At its peak, the tannery employed over 2,000 people. In a town the size of Buford, that meant almost everyone was connected to the "Row" in some way.
The decline of the leather industry in the mid-century hit hard. Synthetic materials and cheaper overseas labor basically gutted the operation. For a long time, the buildings just sat there. They were silent. They were decaying.
Rediscovering Tannery Row in Buford Georgia Today
Fast forward to now, and the "Row" has been reborn, though it’s not exactly a polished museum. It’s better than that. It’s a living space. The Tannery Row Artist Colony is probably the soul of the whole operation. You’ve got about 20 or so working artists who have set up shop in the old factory bays.
It’s not some snobby gallery where you’re afraid to touch anything.
It’s raw. You’ll see painters with smudges on their faces, woodworkers covered in sawdust, and glass blowers dealing with intense heat. They keep the doors open, and you can just wander in. It’s one of the few places in Georgia where you can actually talk to the person who made the thing you’re looking at. The light in those old industrial windows is a photographer's dream, too. Seriously, if you’re into "industrial chic," this is the motherlode.
Eating and Drinking at the Row
Most people end up at the Tannery Row Ale House. It’s huge. It’s the kind of place where the ceilings are so high you feel like you’re in a hangar.
They do the whole "American Pub" thing, but they do it with a bit more grit. The bar is massive. The stage hosts a lot of local Southern rock and country acts. Is it the quietest place for a romantic date? Probably not. But for a Saturday night with a group of friends? It’s perfect. They’ve got a massive selection of craft beers, many of which are local to Georgia.
- Try the fried green tomatoes. They’re a staple for a reason.
- Check the calendar for the "Tribute" nights; the venue gets packed when a good Led Zeppelin or Queen cover band comes through.
- Don't miss the outdoor seating area during the fall.
The Weird, Gritty Details You Might Miss
If you look closely at the brickwork in the main building, you can still see where the old machinery was bolted down. The floors are uneven. The wood is scarred. These aren't "features" added by an interior designer to make it look old; these are the actual scars of a century of hard labor.
There’s also a bit of a ghostly reputation.
I’m not saying it’s haunted, but when you’re walking through the back corridors of an 1800s factory at dusk, your mind starts to play tricks on you. There have been plenty of local stories about "shadow figures" or the sound of non-existent boots walking on the floorboards above. Whether you believe in that stuff or not, the atmosphere is undeniable. It feels heavy. In a good way.
The site also houses the Bona Allen Mansion just up the hill, which is a whole different vibe. While the Tannery is industrial and rugged, the mansion is pure Italianate opulence. It shows the massive wealth the Allen family accumulated while their workers were down in the pits tanning hides. It’s a stark contrast that tells the real story of the Gilded Age in the South.
Why It Matters for the Local Economy
Buford isn't just a bedroom community for Atlanta anymore. It’s a destination. Places like Tannery Row in Buford Georgia provide an anchor. Without this landmark, Buford is just another exit on I-85 with a Mall of Georgia nearby.
The Row brings in foot traffic that supports the smaller boutiques on Main Street. It provides a venue for events that the city otherwise wouldn't have the space for. From CrossFit gyms to high-end photography studios, the businesses that call the Row home are as diverse as the people who visit. It’s a microcosm of how you can repurpose industrial blight into something that actually generates tax revenue and community pride.
The Logistics of Visiting
If you're planning a trip, here's the deal. Parking can be a bit of a mess on Friday and Saturday nights because the Ale House is so popular.
- Address: 554 W Main St, Buford, GA 30518.
- Best Time to Visit: Mid-afternoon on a Saturday. You can catch the artists in their studios before the dinner crowd takes over the Ale House.
- Accessibility: It’s an old building. While they’ve done a lot to make it accessible, expect some bumpy floors and narrow-ish hallways in the artist colony.
The Future of the Row
There’s always talk about more development. More lofts. More shops. The tension in Buford is the same tension you find in places like Savannah or Athens—how do you grow without losing the "soul" that made people want to come there in the first place?
So far, Tannery Row has managed to walk that line. It’s polished enough to be safe and fun, but it’s still "trashy" enough (in the best way possible) to feel real. You won't find a Starbucks inside. You won't find a Gap. You'll find people making things with their hands and people drinking beer while listening to a loud guitar.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
If you want to get the most out of your time at Tannery Row in Buford Georgia, don't just eat and leave.
Start by parking near the water tower and walking the perimeter. Look at the architecture. Then, head into the Artist Colony. Actually talk to the artists. Ask them about the history of their specific studio space; many of them know the lore of which part of the tannery they occupy.
After that, grab a table at the Ale House. If you're into history, bring your phone and look up old photos of the Bona Allen Shoemakers while you eat. Seeing the black-and-white images of the very room you’re sitting in—filled with hundreds of men making boots—changes the experience.
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Finally, take a five-minute drive up to the Bona Allen Mansion. You can’t always go inside (it’s often used for private events), but seeing it from the gate gives you the full picture of the "Boss and the Workers" dynamic that built this town.
This isn't just a "shopping center." It’s a massive, brick-and-mortar history book that happens to serve great burgers. Whether you're a local or just passing through Gwinnett, it’s a spot that demands at least one full afternoon of your time. Don't rush it. Let the atmosphere sink in.
Check the local event listings before you go. The Row often hosts "Main Street" festivals and seasonal markets that spill out into the parking lots. Those are the best times to see the community in full force. It’s loud, it’s busy, and it’s exactly what the Allen family probably envisioned—a place that keeps Buford on the map.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the Tannery Row Artist Colony website for specific open-studio hours, as individual artists set their own schedules.
- Book a reservation at the Ale House if you have a group larger than six; it gets surprisingly busy even on weeknights.
- Visit the Gwinnett Environmental and Heritage Center nearby if you want to see actual artifacts from the tanning process that aren't on display at the Row.