You’re driving through central Iowa, and mostly, it’s corn. Row after row of green or gold, depending on the month, stretching out toward a horizon that feels like it’s never going to end. Then you hit Boone. It’s a town that feels sturdy, built on coal and locomotives, and suddenly you see it—the Boone and Scenic Valley Railway. This isn't one of those shiny, plastic-feeling theme park rides. It’s loud. It smells like diesel and history. It’s basically a rolling museum that somehow managed to keep its soul while the rest of the world moved on to high-speed rail and carbon fiber.
Boone was once a massive hub for the Chicago and North Western Transportation Company. In the late 19th century, this place was humming. Trains weren't just a way to get around; they were the entire economy. When the coal mines started drying up and the passenger lines began to vanish, a group of local enthusiasts decided they weren't going to let the tracks go to seed. They formed the Boone Railroad Historical Society in 1983. They bought an 11-mile stretch of track that runs from Boone through the Des Moines River Valley to the "ghost town" of Fraser. Honestly, it’s one of the most successful volunteer-led preservation efforts in the Midwest.
What Actually Happens When You Get on the Train
The experience starts at the depot, which is packed with more memorabilia than your grandpa’s attic. You’ve got options here, and this is where people usually get confused. You can ride the basic excursion train, which is great for families, or you can go for the dinner train if you’re trying to be a bit fancy. Then there’s the "Wolf" picnic train.
The main draw, though, is the bridge.
About halfway through the trip, the train rolls onto the Bass Point Creek High Bridge. It’s 156 feet high. Looking down from an open-air car is a trip. You’re suspended over this massive limestone valley, and the tracks creak just enough to remind you that you’re sitting on several thousand tons of vintage steel. It’s spectacular. If you go in October, the fall colors in the valley are so bright they almost look fake.
Most people think Iowa is flat. This bridge proves they're wrong. The Des Moines River sits way below you, winding through dense timber that looks like it belongs in the Pacific Northwest, not forty minutes north of Des Moines.
The Chinese Steam Engine Mystery
One of the weirdest and coolest things about the Boone and Scenic Valley Railway is the JS8173. It’s a steam locomotive. But it didn't come from Pennsylvania or Chicago. It came from China.
In the late 1980s, the railway realized that finding an American steam engine in working order was nearly impossible—or at least incredibly expensive. So, they looked abroad. They bought a brand-new (at the time) "JS" class 2-8-2 Mikado locomotive from the Datong Locomotive Works in China. It was one of the last steam engines ever built for commercial use. It arrived in Iowa in 1989, and for years, it was the only place in the country where you could see a "new" steam engine in regular operation.
It’s currently undergoing its 15-year federal inspection and boiler work, which is a massive, multi-year undertaking. That’s the thing about these trains; they aren't toys. They require thousands of hours of specialized labor. When you see a "Steam" day on the calendar, you go. You don't ask questions. You just book it.
The Fraser Branch and Why the Geology Matters
The track follows the old Fort Dodge, Des Moines & Southern line. This was once an "interurban" railway, meaning it was electrified. You can still see some of the old electrical infrastructure if you look closely at the poles along the right-of-way.
The geography of the Fraser branch is unique because it cuts through the Des Moines Lobe. This is the area of Iowa that was covered by the last glacier about 12,000 years ago. As the ice melted, it carved out these deep, dramatic river valleys. The railway follows the contours of the land, dropping down from the high prairie of Boone into the deep, humid valley floor near Fraser.
Fraser itself is a trip. It used to be a bustling coal town with its own power plant. Now, it’s a quiet cluster of homes near the river. When the train stops there to switch directions, you get a real sense of how isolated these towns were before modern highways.
Dining at 15 Miles Per Hour
If you do the dinner train, don't expect a Michelin-star kitchen—the space is too tight for that. But you do get a solid, three-course meal served in 1950s-era climate-controlled cars. These cars were originally used on the Union Pacific’s "City of Los Angeles" and "City of Portland" routes. Sitting in a heavy, smooth-riding Pullman car while eating prime rib and watching the Iowa sunset through a panoramic window is a vibe you can't get anywhere else.
It’s slow. That’s the point. The train averages maybe 10 to 15 miles per hour. In a world where everyone is screaming down I-35 at 80, this forced deceleration is basically therapy.
The James H. Andrew Railroad Museum
Don't skip the museum. Seriously. A lot of people just ride the train and leave, but the museum attached to the depot is world-class. It’s named after James H. Andrew, a local historian who was obsessed with preserving Iowa's rail legacy.
They have a massive collection of:
- Lanterns from defunct lines
- Original telegraph equipment
- Maps that show just how many thousands of miles of track used to crisscross the state
- A 1910-era electric interurban car you can actually walk through
You realize that the Boone and Scenic Valley Railway isn't just a tourist trap; it’s a graveyard for an era of American life that died out when the Interstate Highway Act was signed.
Logistics and the Stuff Nobody Tells You
Boone is a small town. If you’re coming from out of state, you’ll likely fly into Des Moines (DSM) and drive up. It’s an easy 45-minute shot.
- Book ahead for weekends. Especially in the fall. If you show up on a Saturday in October without a ticket, you’re going to be disappointed.
- The open-air cars are the best. Unless it’s raining or 95 degrees, sit in the open cars. You get the full sensory experience—the sound of the wheels, the smell of the woods, and the unobstructed view from the bridge.
- Bring a jacket. Even in summer, that valley can get a little drafty when the train is moving, especially if you’re in the open cars.
- Check the locomotive schedule. They swap between diesel and steam (when the steam engine is operational). If you’re a "foamer" (train slang for a hardcore railfan), you’ll want to make sure you know what’s pulling the consist that day.
The railway also operates a trolley that runs through the streets of Boone. It’s a shorter, cheaper ride, but it uses an original 1915 trolley car. It’s a great way to see the town architecture and get a feel for what life was like when the streetcar was the primary mode of urban transport.
The Reality of Keeping the Rails Hot
Maintaining a heritage railway is a nightmare of logistics. You’re dealing with parts that haven't been manufactured since the Truman administration. The volunteers and the small staff at Boone are basically magicians. They have to machine their own parts, navigate complex federal railroad regulations, and maintain miles of track through a valley that likes to flood.
When you buy a ticket, you're essentially funding the survival of these machines. It’s expensive, it’s dirty work, and it’s a labor of love. Most of the conductors and brakemen you see are volunteers who just really, really love trains. Talk to them. They usually have a wealth of knowledge about the specific history of the car you’re sitting in.
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Taking Action: How to Plan the Trip
If you're ready to see this for yourself, start by checking the official Boone and Scenic Valley Railway calendar online. They have specific "special events" like Day Out with Thomas (for the kids) or the Pumpkin Express. If you want the "real" experience without the crowds, aim for a weekday afternoon in late September.
- Morning: Visit the Mamie Doud Eisenhower Birthplace in Boone. It's just a few minutes from the tracks.
- Lunch: Grab a burger at a local spot in downtown Boone before heading to the depot.
- Afternoon: Take the 1:30 PM basic excursion. It gives you the best light for photos on the bridge.
- After: Spend an hour in the museum. You’ll appreciate what you just rode much more after seeing the exhibits.
This isn't just about looking at old metal. It’s about standing in the gap between the past and the present. When that whistle blows and echoes off the limestone walls of the Des Moines River Valley, you feel it in your chest. It’s a reminder that we used to build things to last. The Boone and Scenic Valley Railway is still here because people cared enough to keep the engine hot. Go see it before the world gets any faster.