You've probably got a drawer full of them. You know the one—it's usually tangled between an old Nokia charger and a mysterious HDMI cable that might be broken. It’s that small, symmetrical plug with two circles joined together. Most people just call it "the plug for the Apple TV" or "that radio cord," but in the world of electronics manufacturing, it's officially known as the IEC 60320 C7. To everyone else, it’s just the figure 8 power cord. It is arguably the most ubiquitous, unglamorous, and reliable piece of tech hardware ever made.
It’s everywhere.
Seriously, look behind your TV. Look at your PlayStation 5, your Sonos speaker, or that Canon printer that jams every time you try to print a boarding pass. They all use the same interface. Despite the world moving toward USB-C for literally everything else, the figure 8 power cord refuses to die. Why? Because it’s cheap, it’s safe, and it’s remarkably clever in its simplicity.
The Boring Science That Makes It Work
Electricity is scary if you think about it too hard, but the C7 connector is designed to be idiot-proof. It’s a non-polarized coupler. That’s a fancy way of saying it doesn't matter which way you plug it into the device. Unlike the C13—the big, chunky trapezoid plug you find on desktop PCs—the figure 8 doesn't have a specific "top" or "bottom" side. You just jam it in.
Well, usually.
There is actually a polarized version called the C7P. You’ll recognize it because one side of the "8" is squared off. If you try to force a squared C7P into a standard rounded C7 socket, you’re going to have a bad time. Manufacturers use the polarized version when it’s critical that the "hot" and "neutral" wires stay in a specific orientation for safety reasons, often to prevent a chassis from becoming live. But for 90% of your home gadgets, the standard, rounded figure 8 power cord is the king of the castle.
It handles up to 2.5 Amps. In North America, where we run on 125V, that’s about 300 Watts of power. That is plenty for a gaming console or a massive LED TV, but don't try to run your toaster off one. It’ll melt.
Why Sony and Apple Love This Cable
Have you noticed how slim electronics have become? A major reason is the death of the "power brick." Back in the day, every gadget had a massive plastic tumor hanging off the power cord. That was the transformer. It converted the high-voltage AC from your wall into the low-voltage DC your device needed.
Today, engineers have gotten really good at shrinking those components. They stick the power supply inside the device. Because the figure 8 power cord is so small—literally the size of a postage stamp at the connection point—it allows designers to keep the back of the device flush.
Take the PlayStation 4 and 5. Sony has stuck with the figure 8 for generations. It saves internal space and makes the console look like a sleek piece of tech rather than a science project. Apple did the same with the Mac Mini and the iMac for years. By using a standard C7, these companies also save millions of dollars in supply chain costs. They don't have to design a custom plug; they just buy millions of these generic cables for pennies and toss them in the box.
The Cheap vs. Expensive Debate
Go to Amazon and you’ll find a figure 8 power cord for $4. Go to a high-end audio shop and you might find one for $400.
Is there a difference?
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Honestly, for your printer? No. Not even a little bit. But in the audiophile community, people swear that "shielded" or "oxygen-free copper" C7 cables reduce electrical noise in speakers or amplifiers. While there is some truth to the idea that poorly made, paper-thin cables can introduce interference, most of the "premium" cable market is built on vibes rather than physics. If your cable is UL-listed (or carries the CE mark in Europe), it’s safe. If it’s thick enough to not feel like a piece of wet spaghetti, it’s probably fine.
One thing to actually watch out for: copper-clad aluminum (CCA). Some ultra-cheap manufacturers use aluminum wire coated in a thin layer of copper to save money. Aluminum is more brittle and doesn't conduct as well as pure copper. If you're powering something that draws a lot of juice, like a high-end soundbar, a CCA cable can actually get warm to the touch. That’s a fire hazard. Always look for "100% Copper" on the packaging if you're buying a replacement.
Identifying Your Specific Needs
Not all figure 8 cables are created equal in terms of length and durability. If you’re mounting a TV on a wall, the standard 6-foot cord that came in the box is going to be your worst enemy. It’ll dangle. It’ll look messy.
You can actually buy 1-foot versions for tidy desks or 25-foot versions for reaching across a living room. There are also "right-angle" figure 8 cords. These are life-changers for tight spaces. If your couch is pushed up against your TV or your subwoofer is wedged into a corner, a right-angle plug prevents the cable from bending and fraying at the neck.
Common Failures and When to Toss It
Cables are passive, so they don't "break" in the way a computer breaks. They fail physically. The most common point of failure for a figure 8 power cord is the strain relief—the part where the wire meets the plug. If you see the outer rubber jacket pulling back to reveal the colored insulation (usually blue and brown or black and white) underneath, stop using it.
Electric tape is not a permanent fix.
Another weird issue is "loose fit." Because the C7 is a friction-fit connector, the metal contacts inside can spread apart over time, especially if you unplug and replug it constantly. If the cord feels "wobbly" inside your device or the power cuts out when you wiggle it, the internal spring tension is gone. Just buy a new one. They cost less than a latte.
The Global Standard
One of the coolest things about the figure 8 power cord is that the "device end" is the same everywhere in the world. If you take your American PS5 to London, the console itself can handle the 230V jump (most modern power supplies are "switching" and handle 100-240V). You don't need a bulky voltage converter. You just need a figure 8 cable with a UK three-prong plug on the other end.
This modularity is why tech enthusiasts love the C7. It makes international travel and moving countries significantly easier.
What to Check Before You Buy a Replacement
Before you click "buy" on that replacement cord, do a quick three-point inspection of your device.
First, look at the shape. Is it a perfect "8" (rounded on both sides) or is one side flat? If it’s flat, you need the polarized C7P. Second, check the amperage. Most figure 8 cables are rated for 2.5A, which is standard. If your device is some weird, high-draw industrial tool, make sure the cable matches the specs on the sticker. Third, check the length. Measure twice, buy once.
It’s easy to ignore the humble power cord until it stops working. But this little piece of plastic and copper is the bridge between the massive electrical grid and the tiny chips that run your life. Respect the figure 8.
Actionable Steps for Cable Safety and Organization
- Audit your "junk drawer": Group your figure 8 cables by length. Use Velcro ties—not rubber bands—to store them. Rubber bands degrade over time and turn into a sticky mess on the cable jacket.
- Check for UL Listing: Look for the little "UL" or "ETL" stamp on the plug. This ensures the cable has been tested for fire safety. If it doesn't have one, throw it away.
- Upgrade to Right-Angle Plugs: If you have a wall-mounted TV or any device flush against a wall, replace the straight plug with a right-angle figure 8 cord to prevent internal wire breakage.
- Label the ends: Use a small piece of masking tape or a label maker to mark which cord belongs to which device. Even though they are interchangeable, it helps to know which one came with your $1,200 OLED TV versus your $20 thrift store radio.
- Avoid "Cheater" Plugs: Never use a figure 8 cable with an adapter that removes the grounding pin on the wall side if you're using a three-prong outlet. While the C7 itself isn't grounded, the overall circuit safety depends on your home's wiring.