Nevis is a weirdly specific kind of island. It doesn't have a single traffic light. It’s got more green vervet monkeys than people, and if you're looking for a sprawling mega-resort with an infinity pool that pumps top-40 hits, you are in the wrong place. But tucked into the foothills of Nevis Peak, sitting about 800 feet above the Caribbean Sea, is The Hermitage Plantation Inn Nevis. It’s old. Like, 1600s old.
Most people get it wrong. They think "plantation inn" and expect a polished, Disney-fied version of history with air-conditioned lobbies and marble floors. That isn't this. The Great House at The Hermitage is widely considered the oldest wooden house in the Caribbean, built primarily of lignum vitae—a wood so dense it actually sinks in water. It’s been standing since roughly 1670. Think about that for a second. It has survived every hurricane, earthquake, and colonial shift for over 350 years.
Honestly, the first thing you notice when you pull up the driveway isn't the luxury. It’s the smell of jasmine and the sound of wind in the palms. It feels like you’ve accidentally driven onto someone's very private, very eccentric estate. Which, frankly, is exactly what it is. The Lupinacci family has owned and operated this spot since the 1970s, and they’ve kept it feeling like a home rather than a hotel.
This Isn't Your Standard Beach Vacation
Let’s be real: if you need to be on the sand the moment you wake up, The Hermitage might frustrate you. It’s in the hills. You’re looking down at the ocean, not stepping into it. But that elevation is a gift. While the coast is sweltering at 2:00 PM, up here there’s a breeze that basically makes air conditioning irrelevant. Most of the cottages—some of which are actual historic wooden houses moved from elsewhere on the island—don't even have A/C. They don't need it.
The architecture here is "gingerbread" style. It’s all about wooden shutters, wide verandas, and hammocks that have seen a thousand books. Every room is different. One might have a four-poster canopy bed made of heavy mahogany; another might have a tiny loft that feels like a ship's cabin. It’s quirky. You might find a slightly sticky drawer or a rug that’s seen better days, but that’s the trade-off for staying in a living museum.
The Famous Pig Roast and the Social Fabric
You can't talk about The Hermitage Plantation Inn Nevis without talking about the Wednesday night pig roast. It’s a thing. Locals show up, expats show up, and the guests are all there, too. They roast a whole pig in a traditional earthen oven, and the food is served family-style at long tables.
It’s one of those rare moments in modern travel where you actually talk to people you don't know. You’ll find yourself sitting next to a sailor who just docked in Oualie Bay or a retired professor who’s been coming to Nevis for thirty years. The menu usually sticks to what the island provides: local fish, breadfruit, christophene, and plenty of rum punch. The Lupinaccis are usually around, too, telling stories about the island’s history or where to find the best hidden hiking trails.
Why the History Actually Matters
A lot of Caribbean resorts try to hide their colonial past or dress it up in gold leaf. The Hermitage is more transparent. You are staying on a former sugar plantation. The history of the Caribbean is complex and often brutal, and being in a 350-year-old house forces a certain level of reflection that a modern glass tower just doesn't.
Richard Lupinacci, the patriarch, is basically an unofficial island historian. If you catch him at the bar, he can explain the joinery of the Great House—how the timbers were notched together without nails to allow the building to "flex" during storms. This is why the building is still here. It was designed to move with the earth, not resist it.
- The Great House: The social hub. No TVs. Just books, old maps, and gin and tonics.
- The Cottages: Scattered across the gardens. Privacy is the priority here.
- The Pool: Small, quiet, and surrounded by tropical greenery.
Most people spend their days doing... nothing. And that’s the point. You might take a taxi down to Pinney’s Beach for a "Killer Bee" cocktail at Sunshine’s, but you usually find yourself rushing back up the hill to the quiet of the plantation.
What to Expect (And What Not To)
If you’re a traveler who gets upset if the Wi-Fi drops out for ten minutes, stay away. The internet works, but the thick stone walls and tropical storms can make it temperamental. This is a place for people who want to disconnect.
You should also expect some nature. This isn't a sterile environment. You will see lizards. You will hear the donkeys braying in the distance. You will definitely see monkeys. If you leave a piece of fruit on your porch, a monkey will likely claim it. It’s their island; we’re just visiting.
The service is "island time." It’s friendly, personal, and genuine, but it isn’t the subservient, scripted service you get at a Four Seasons. If you ask for a drink and the person behind the bar is in the middle of a story, you might have to wait a minute. Honestly, it’s refreshing. It feels human.
👉 See also: SpringHill Suites Long Island Brookhaven: What Most People Get Wrong
Survival Tips for the Nevis Hillside
If you decide to book a stay, there are a few things that will make your life easier. First, rent a car. While the Inn can arrange taxis, having your own Suzuki Samurai or small SUV gives you the freedom to explore the island's "Heritage Trail." Nevis is small—you can drive around the whole thing in about 45 minutes—but there are so many ruins and small churches to see that you’ll want the mobility.
Secondly, bring bug spray. The trade winds keep the mosquitoes down most of the time, but around sunset in the gardens, they can be persistent.
Third, eat the local breakfast. Skip the standard eggs and ask for whatever is fresh. The fruit on Nevis is spectacular—mangoes, papayas, and carambola that taste nothing like the cardboard versions in US supermarkets.
The Verdict on The Hermitage Plantation Inn Nevis
Is it for everyone? Absolutely not. If you want "modern luxury," go to the Four Seasons down the road. But if you want a soul, if you want to feel the weight of history, and if you want to sleep in a room where the walls have stories to tell, this is the spot.
💡 You might also like: Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore: Why People Get the Name and the Hike Totally Wrong
It represents a fading era of Caribbean travel. It’s about the slow pace, the architecture, and the sense of being part of a community rather than just a room number. In a world that is increasingly homogenized, The Hermitage remains stubbornly, wonderfully itself.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check the Calendar: If you want to experience the Pig Roast, ensure your stay includes a Wednesday night, as it is the social highlight of the week and requires a reservation even for guests.
- Pack for "Hillside Casual": Leave the formal wear behind. You'll need sturdy sandals for the uneven stone paths and a light sweater for the surprisingly cool evenings in the foothills.
- Book Directly: While third-party sites list the property, calling or emailing the Inn directly often yields better information on which specific cottage fits your needs (e.g., proximity to the Great House vs. maximum privacy).
- Research the Heritage Trail: Before you arrive, look up the Nevis Heritage Trail map. Many of the sites are unmarked, and having a bit of context on the nearby sugar mill ruins will make your island explorations much more rewarding.