Why The Inn at Long Trail is still Vermont's best kept secret for hikers and Guinness fans

Why The Inn at Long Trail is still Vermont's best kept secret for hikers and Guinness fans

If you’ve ever hiked through the Green Mountains, you know that Vermont isn't just a state; it’s a mood. Specifically, a mood that involves mud, steep inclines, and the desperate hope for a cold pint at the end of the day. That’s where The Inn at Long Trail comes in. It’s sitting right there at the top of Sherburne Pass, looking exactly like the kind of place a weary traveler would stumble into in a folk tale, except instead of a magic potion, they hand you a heavy glass of Guinness and a plate of Irish stew.

Honestly, it’s a bit of a local legend.

Located in Killington, this isn't your typical cookie-cutter ski resort hotel with glass elevators and a lobby that smells like expensive perfume. It smells like woodsmoke and history. Built in 1938, it was actually the first lodge in Vermont specifically constructed to serve the skiing community. But let’s be real—while the skiing is great at nearby Killington and Pico, the soul of this place belongs to the hikers. It’s perched at an elevation of 2,170 feet, making it a literal high point for anyone trekking the Long Trail or the Appalachian Trail, which happen to cross right nearby.

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The McGrath family and the Irish heart of the mountain

You can't talk about The Inn at Long Trail without mentioning the McGrath family. They’ve owned the place since 1977. That’s nearly five decades of pouring drinks and making beds. When you walk into McGrath’s Irish Pub—the onsite bar that’s basically the heart of the building—you aren't just entering a restaurant. You’re entering a space that feels like it was imported brick-by-brick from County Clare, then aged in a Vermont forest.

It’s got the boulders.

Seriously, there are massive rocks built right into the architecture of the pub. You’re sitting there, sipping a beer, and there’s a literal piece of the mountain protruding from the wall. It’s rugged. It’s weird. It’s perfect. The pub was the first in Vermont to serve Guinness on tap, and they still take that legacy pretty seriously. If you’re looking for a quiet, sterilized dining experience, go somewhere else. Here, you’re likely to find a through-hiker with a bushy beard sharing a table with a family in Patagonia fleeces, everyone listening to live Irish music that usually kicks off on the weekends.

What it's actually like to stay there

The rooms are... well, they’re rustic.

If you’re expecting a 50-inch 4K TV and a bidet, you might be disappointed. But that’s sort of the point. The accommodations range from basic hiker "hitch" rooms to more comfortable fireplace suites. The suites are the way to go if you want that classic New England vibe—wood-burning fireplaces, cozy quilts, and a distinct lack of "corporate" feeling. It’s the kind of place where the floorboards might creak, but in a way that feels like a hug from an old house rather than a nuisance.

Think of it as a base camp with soul.

Prices generally fluctuate based on the season. During the peak "leaf-peeping" weeks in October or the height of the ski season, you’re going to pay a premium. But in the shoulder seasons—those muddy Vermont weeks when the crowds thin out—you can find some absolute steals. Most people come for the atmosphere, not the thread count.

Hiking the "Long Trail" from the front door

Since the inn takes its name from the oldest long-distance hiking trail in the United States, it’s worth noting just how central it is to the trekking community. The Long Trail runs 272 miles from the Massachusetts border to Canada. The Inn at Long Trail sits at a critical junction.

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Deer Leap is the hike everyone tells you to do, and for good reason. It’s a short but moderately steep climb that starts basically across the street. Once you get to the top, the views of the Sherburne Pass and the Pico peak are staggering. It’s one of those "high reward for medium effort" hikes that makes you feel like an elite mountaineer without actually having to camp in a tent for three weeks.

  • Distance: Roughly 2 to 3 miles round trip depending on the loop.
  • Difficulty: Moderate (expect some rock scrambling).
  • The Vibe: Pure Vermont granite and pine.

For the "thru-hikers" (those brave souls walking the whole AT or LT), the inn is a sanctuary. They offer hiker rates and have a laundry facility that has probably seen more miles than a long-haul trucker. There’s a specific culture here. You’ll see hikers sorting through their gear on the porch, drying out boots, and inhaling calories at the pub. It creates this transient, communal energy that you just don't get at the Hilton.

Guinness, stew, and the "Murphy’s" factor

Let’s talk about the food, because it’s a major reason people drive up the pass even if they aren't staying the night. The menu at McGrath’s isn't trying to reinvent the wheel. It’s Irish-American comfort food done with heavy hands.

The Guinness Stew is the flagship. It’s thick, dark, and filled with chunks of beef that have been simmering until they basically give up. Then there’s the Shepherd’s Pie. It’s the kind of meal that sits in your stomach like a warm brick—in a good way. You need those calories if you’ve been out in the Vermont cold or climbing 2,000 feet of elevation.

One thing most people get wrong: they assume it’s just a "hiker bar." It’s actually quite family-friendly during the day and early evening. However, once the sun goes down and the fiddle music starts, the energy shifts. It becomes a stomping ground. They’ve been known to host some of the best St. Patrick's Day parties in the entire state, but honestly, every Saturday in February feels a bit like St. Paddy’s Day there.

The reality of the "Rustic" label

Vermont has a lot of "faux-rustic" places. You know the ones—they have barn wood that was actually bought at a boutique in New York City last year. The Inn at Long Trail is the real deal. This means it has quirks. The plumbing is old. The hallways are narrow. The Wi-Fi can be "Vermont-style," which is a polite way of saying it might be a bit temperamental if there’s a storm or if everyone is trying to upload their summit selfies at the same time.

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But that’s the trade-off.

You’re trading modern sterility for character. You’re trading a predictable breakfast buffet for a seat near a roaring fire where the person next to you might have a fascinating story about walking from Georgia to Maine. It’s a place for people who like stories.

While the inn feels isolated and tucked away, it’s actually incredibly well-positioned. You’re minutes away from the Killington Resort access road.

If you’re a skier, staying here is a strategic move. You avoid the chaotic "strip" of Killington Road but stay close enough to be the first one in the lift line at Pico or Killington. Pico Mountain, in particular, has a very similar "old school" vibe to the inn. It’s less flashy than its big brother Killington, with narrower trails and a more relaxed atmosphere.

In the summer, the area transforms into a mountain biking mecca. Killington’s bike park is world-class, and having the inn as a quiet retreat to return to after a day of downhill gravity-fed adrenaline is a solid plan.

Why it still matters in 2026

In an era where travel is increasingly digitized and automated, places like this are becoming rare. There’s no kiosk to check you in. You’re going to talk to a human being. Probably a McGrath.

The inn serves as a reminder that Vermont’s identity is tied to the landscape and the people who endure it. Whether it's "stick season" (that gray period between autumn and the first snow) or the lush green of July, the inn stays remarkably consistent. It doesn't try to chase trends. It doesn't have a "concept." It’s just an inn. On a trail.

Actionable steps for your visit

If you’re planning to head up to Sherburne Pass, here is how to do it right:

  1. Book the fireplace suites early. There aren't many of them, and they are the first to go during ski season and foliage season. If you're a hiker on a budget, ask about the "Hitch" rooms, but be prepared for shared bathrooms.
  2. Check the music schedule. McGrath’s Irish Pub usually has live music on Fridays and Saturdays. If you want the full experience, time your stay for a weekend. If you want peace and quiet, go on a Tuesday.
  3. Don't skip Deer Leap. Even if you aren't a "hiker," the trail to the overlook is manageable for most people with decent footwear. The view of the sunset from the rocks is arguably the best in the Killington area.
  4. Bring a physical map. Cell service on the pass can be spotty once you head into the woods. Don't rely 100% on your phone for navigation on the Long Trail.
  5. Try the Guinness. Even if you aren't a stout fan, there’s something about the way they pour it here—and the atmosphere you drink it in—that makes it taste different.

The Inn at Long Trail isn't just a place to sleep. It’s a cornerstone of Vermont’s outdoor culture. It’s rugged, it’s Irish, and it’s unapologetically old-fashioned. If you can handle a creaky floorboard and a bit of mountain fog, it’s probably exactly where you need to be.