You’re standing on a ladder, arm stretched over your head, trying to cut through a 2-inch PVC pipe that some plumber tucked into the tightest corner imaginable twenty years ago. You’ve got maybe four inches of clearance. A full-sized Sawzall is out of the question—it’s too long, too heavy, and frankly, using that monster one-handed is a great way to end up in the ER. This is exactly why the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hackzall exists. It isn't just a "mini" reciprocating saw. It's a completely different beast designed for the reality of cramped jobsites.
Honestly, people get confused by the name. Is it a hacksaw? A recip saw? Milwaukee calls it a "Hackzall," but most of us just call it the one-handed savior.
The Vibration Problem Most Reviews Ignore
Most compact saws vibrate so hard your teeth rattle. It’s annoying. It makes your cuts sloppy. Milwaukee dealt with this by using a dual-gear counterweight mechanism. Basically, there’s a weight inside that moves in the opposite direction of the blade. It sounds like a small detail, but when you’re making twenty cuts in a row, the lack of fatigue is noticeable.
I’ve seen guys try to save fifty bucks by getting the non-Fuel version. Don't. The Powerstate brushless motor in the Fuel model isn't just about "more power"—it's about maintaining stroke speed under load. When that blade bites into thick galvanized pipe, a brushed motor bogs down and heats up. The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hackzall just keeps humming. It’s got a 7/8-inch stroke length. That’s shorter than a standard Sawzall (which usually hits 1-1/8 inches), but the M18 Fuel hits up to 3,000 strokes per minute. It makes up for the shorter distance with sheer speed.
The physics are simple: shorter strokes mean less "bucking" in tight spaces.
If you’re cutting through drywall or thin metal, a long stroke length actually works against you because the blade hits the back of the wall or the other side of the pipe. The 2719-20 (that's the official model number for those keeping track) finds the sweet spot. It’s compact enough to fit between studs but carries enough weight to let the tool do the work.
Real World Torture: PVC, EMT, and All-Thread
Let’s talk about what this thing actually cuts. In a shop setting, we tested it against 3/4-inch EMT conduit. It’s butter. You can zip through a dozen pieces in less time than it takes to find your manual hacksaw. But where it really shines is all-thread.
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If you’re an electrician hanging strut, you know the pain of cutting all-thread overhead. The Hackzall is balanced perfectly at the grip. Because the center of gravity is right over your palm, you aren't fighting the tool’s weight to keep your cut straight.
It handles:
- Black iron pipe (slowly, but it does it)
- Copper tubing (cleanly, barely any deburring needed)
- Wood with nails (limited by blade length, but the motor won't quit)
- Schedule 40 PVC
One thing to watch out for is the shoe. Unlike the big M18 Fuel Sawzall, the shoe on the Hackzall is fixed. You can’t extend it. This means you’ll wear out the teeth at the base of your blade faster because you can't shift the "bite point." It’s a trade-off for the compact size. Some folks find this annoying. Me? I just buy more blades.
Is the M18 Fuel Hackzall Overkill?
I get asked this a lot: "Why not just buy the M12 version?"
The M12 Fuel Hackzall is an incredible tool. It’s lighter. It’s smaller. But if you are a plumber or a mechanical contractor, the M12 starts to struggle once you hit 2-inch cast iron or thick-walled steel. The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hackzall has the Redlink Plus intelligence system which is fancy marketing speak for "the battery and motor talk to each other so it doesn't melt."
In high-demand situations, the M18 platform provides a level of sustained torque that the 12-volt batteries just can't match.
If you already have a pile of M18 batteries, buying the M12 tool means buying a new charger and new batteries. Stick to the platform you have. The weight difference between the M12 and M18 isn't as massive as you’d think once you factor in the speed of the cut. A faster cut means you're holding the tool for less time anyway.
The Quik-Lok Clamp and Blade Choice
Milwaukee’s Quik-Lok blade clamp is probably the best in the industry. It’s a simple twist-lock. You don't need an Allen wrench. You don't need to hold your breath. It just works. Even when the tool is covered in pipe dope or drywall dust, that clamp rarely jams.
But here is the secret: the tool is only as good as the blade.
Put a cheap, generic blade in an M18 Fuel and it’ll perform like a toy. If you’re doing heavy demo, grab the Milwaukee Torch blades or the Nitrus Carbide ones. Carbide teeth are a game-changer for this saw. Since the stroke is shorter, each tooth is doing more work. Cheap bi-metal blades will dull in seconds if you’re hitting stainless steel or Grade 8 bolts. The Nitrus blades stay sharp long enough to make the investment worth it.
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The Ergonomics of the "Pistol Grip"
Traditional reciprocating saws require two hands for safety. If the blade binds, the tool wants to twist out of your grip. The Hackzall’s design puts your hand behind the motor, pushing directly in line with the blade.
This "pistol grip" style makes it feel more like an extension of your arm.
It’s surprisingly good for landscaping, too. If you’re pruning branches that are too big for shears but too small for a chainsaw, the Hackzall is perfect. You can hold the branch with one hand and cut with the other. (Just be careful. Seriously. Keep your fingers away from the reciprocating path.)
Battery Life and Thermal Management
If you slap a 5.0 Ah XC battery on this, you can work most of the day. If you’re doing heavy demolition, like ripping out an entire bathroom’s worth of old plumbing, you might want the High Output 6.0 Ah. The High Output batteries have larger cells that stay cooler.
Heat is the enemy of cordless tools.
The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hackzall manages heat well, but if you’re burying the blade in wet pressure-treated lumber for ten minutes straight, the handle will get warm. That’s the Redlink system doing its job, pulling heat away from the vital components.
What Most People Get Wrong
People often think this replaces a circular saw or a table saw. It doesn't. This is a "problem solver" tool. It’s for the cuts that are awkward, dirty, or hard to reach. It’s not for making furniture. The cut is "rough," meaning you’ll have some burrs and jagged edges to clean up.
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Also, don't assume "Fuel" is just a label. The difference between the standard M18 Hackzall and the Fuel version is roughly 4x the motor life and significantly more power. If you’re a DIYer who uses it once a year to cut a Christmas tree, the cheap one is fine. If you earn your living with your hands, the Fuel is the only option.
Actionable Next Steps for New Owners:
- Check the Blade Seat: Before your first cut, ensure the blade is fully seated in the Quik-Lok. A partial seat can strip the internal locking mechanism.
- Buy Carbide: Pick up a 3-pack of Carbide-teeth blades (like the Ax or the Torch). They cost more but save you money by lasting 50x longer in tough materials.
- Register the Tool: Milwaukee’s 5-year warranty is solid, but it’s much easier to claim if you’ve registered the tool on their site immediately after purchase.
- Mind the Battery: Use at least a 5.0 Ah battery for the best balance. The small 2.0 Ah "compact" batteries will make the tool feel front-heavy and will die too quickly under load.